Coriandrum sativum
Coriander is one of the most used herbs in global cooking — Indian, Thai, Mexican, and Middle Eastern cuisines are built on it. Growing your own delivers a freshness and intensity utterly absent from shop-bought bunches, which are almost always chilled, stressed, and half-composted by the time they reach you. The challenge is its relentless urge to bolt the moment conditions turn warm or dry. The solution is simple: sow little, sow often, sow direct, and keep the roots cool.
Leisure and Calypso are the bolt-resistant leaf varieties — the ones to grow if continuous leaf harvest is the goal. Santos is a reliable mid-season choice. Confetti has unusual feathery leaves perfect for garnishing. Moroccan (Cilantro) bolts fast but produces the most aromatic seed — grow it specifically for the spice crop. Lemon Coriander is a different flavour experience with a bright citrus note alongside the classic coriander character, excellent in Thai and Southeast Asian cooking.
The number of varieties shown for each crop is based on UK consumption data (2025/26) — the more popular the crop, the more variety choices we include.
A variety bred specifically for slow bolting and maximum leaf production. Significantly more productive than standard coriander in summer conditions. The best choice for gardeners who want repeated leaf harvests over an extended season. Strong, classic coriander flavour. The go-to variety for the kitchen garden.
Unusually fine, thread-like feathery leaves that are more delicate in appearance than standard coriander. The flavour is excellent — full coriander character with a slightly lighter texture. Beautiful as a garnish and in salads where the delicate leaf shape adds visual interest. Same growing requirements as other varieties but slightly more decorative.
A reliable, consistently performing coriander variety with good bolt resistance and strong leaf production through spring and autumn. Performs well across a range of conditions and is a dependable choice when a specific bolt-resistant variety is unavailable. Good classic flavour. One of the most widely available varieties in UK seed catalogues.
Grown primarily for its highly aromatic seed rather than its leaves. Vigorous, upright growth with early bolting — which is actually desirable in this case. The seeds are larger, rounder, and more intensely fragrant than standard varieties. Leave the plant to flower and set seed, then harvest the dry seed heads in late summer. The seeds are a spice in their own right — whole in curries, ground in blends.
One of the most bolt-resistant coriander varieties available — developed for leaf production in warm conditions where standard types run immediately to seed. Compact, upright habit with abundant leaf production. An excellent variety for summer sowing in the South and Midlands where heat pressure is greatest. Maintains good flavour throughout its extended leaf-producing period.
A distinct coriander variety with a pronounced lemon-citrus note alongside the classic coriander flavour. Outstanding in Thai, Vietnamese, and Southeast Asian cooking where citrus and coriander naturally combine. Different in character from standard coriander and worth growing alongside it for variety. Slightly more delicate in flavour — use more generously than standard coriander in cooked dishes.
Leisure, Santos, and Confetti are available from most major UK seed suppliers. Calypso and Lemon Coriander are stocked by specialist herb and vegetable seed companies. Moroccan coriander is widely available under various names — look for varieties described as being grown for seed. Coriander is not available as garden centre plants — it must be sown direct and plants bought in pots will bolt almost immediately on planting out.
Open ground is by far the best growing method for coriander. The unrestricted root run significantly delays bolting compared to containers. Sow in part-shaded areas of the garden in summer — under taller crops, along a north-facing fence, or in the shadow of a bean frame. Full sun in July–August triggers bolting within days of germination.
Coriander can be grown in containers but bolts significantly faster than in the ground due to root restriction and faster temperature fluctuations. Use the deepest container available (at least 20cm), sow direct, keep in part shade during summer, and water daily. Accept that each container sowing will last 3–4 weeks rather than 6–8.
Coriander is a member of the same family and is thought to confuse carrot root fly with its scent.
Both are fast-growing, cool-season crops that suit the same bed and timing.
Chives' scent is thought to help deter aphids from nearby coriander.
Rake the soil to a fine tilth and remove any large stones or clumps. Coriander germinates in the top 1cm of soil and needs good contact with fine compost or earth. On heavy clay, incorporate a little grit to prevent surface capping.
Draw a shallow drill 1–2cm deep. For scatter-sowing (cut-and-come-again style), rake the area level and scatter seeds across the surface. Space seeds 2cm apart in the drill — do not sow too thickly or the seedlings compete and bolt faster.
Cover with 1–1.5cm of fine soil and firm gently with the back of a rake. Water carefully using a fine rose watering can — heavy watering washes seeds out of position. Label with variety and date.
Coriander germinates in 7–14 days in warm soil. If sowing early in spring when soil is cold, germination may take up to 3 weeks. Keep the surface moist during germination — never let it crust.
Thin seedlings progressively to 15cm apart when they reach 5cm. Use thinnings immediately as microherbs — they are full of flavour. Avoid disturbing remaining plants during thinning.
Harvest outer leaves when plants are 15–20cm tall. At the same time, sow the next batch — staggering by 2–3 weeks gives a continuous supply. Never wait until the current planting has bolted before sowing the next.
| Region | Sow / plant | Harvest | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Scotland & Far North | May–Aug | Jul–Oct | May–Aug · Plant: N/A · Harvest: Jul–Oct |
| Northern England | Apr–Sep | Jun–Nov | Apr–Sep · Plant: N/A · Harvest: Jun–Nov |
| Midlands & Wales | Mar–Sep | May–Nov | Mar–Sep · Plant: N/A · Harvest: May–Nov |
| Ireland & Isle of Man | Apr–Sep | Jun–Nov | Apr–Sep · Plant: N/A · Harvest: Jun–Nov |
| South & SE England | Mar–Sep | May–Nov | Mar–Sep · Plant: N/A · Harvest: May–Nov |
| South Coast & SW | Mar–Oct | May–Dec | Mar–Oct · Plant: N/A · Harvest: May–Dec |
For a seed crop, sow from April in a sunny position and do not worry about bolting — you want the plant to flower and set seed. Sow slightly more thickly than for leaf production and thin to 20cm to give each plant space to develop a full seed head.
Do not pinch out flower stems — let the plant bolt and produce its white, lacy umbel flowers. The flowers are attractive and valuable to pollinators. This is when the plant transitions from herb to spice crop.
After flowering, the round green seeds develop on the stems. Watch them carefully — they change from green to brown over 2–3 weeks. Harvest before they fall from the plant naturally.
Cut the whole stem when the majority of seeds are brown but before they start falling. Tie several stems together and hang upside down over a paper bag or tray — the remaining seeds dry and fall off over 2 weeks.
Once fully dry, store whole seeds in an airtight jar away from light. Use whole in curries and pickles, or grind fresh for spice blends. Home-grown coriander seed has a distinctly more complex flavour than bought seed.
Leave a few seed heads on the plant to drop naturally — coriander self-seeds prolifically and gives a completely free autumn crop that will appear without any effort in subsequent seasons.
| Region | Sow / plant | Harvest | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Scotland & Far North | May | Sep–Oct | May · Plant: N/A · Harvest: Sep–Oct (seed) |
| Northern England | Apr–May | Aug–Sep | Apr–May · Plant: N/A · Harvest: Aug–Sep (seed) |
| Midlands & Wales | Apr | Aug–Sep | Apr · Plant: N/A · Harvest: Aug–Sep (seed) |
| Ireland & Isle of Man | Apr–May | Aug–Sep | Apr–May · Plant: N/A · Harvest: Aug–Sep (seed) |
| South & SE England | Apr | Aug | Apr · Plant: N/A · Harvest: Aug (seed) |
| South Coast & SW | Mar–Apr | Aug | Mar–Apr · Plant: N/A · Harvest: Aug (seed) |
Coriander should not be started in a propagator for transplanting — it bolts the moment its taproot is disturbed. A propagator is useful only for warming a seed tray of compost for direct container sowing in early spring, when soil or compost is too cold for reliable germination. Set to a modest 15°C and sow direct into the final container, then remove to a sheltered outdoor position once germinated.
Not useful for coriander. The crop must be direct-sown to avoid transplant shock, and an unheated lid offers no meaningful temperature benefit for outdoor or windowsill direct sowings from April onwards.
Standard unheated propagator — A lidded seed tray traps warmth and humidity around germinating seeds without electricity. Performance depends entirely on room temperature — best placed on a warm windowsill and used from March onwards. Replace the lid promptly after watering. Remove it completely the moment seedlings emerge to prevent damping off.
For container sowing, use a deep pot or trough (at least 20cm deep) to give the taproot maximum room. Fill with peat-free compost and water well before sowing.
Scatter seeds on the surface and cover with 1cm of compost. Do not plan to transplant — these seeds stay where they are sown. Label clearly.
If sowing in March when indoor temperatures are cool, place the sown container in a propagator set to 15°C until germination — usually 7–10 days. Remove immediately once seedlings appear.
Once germinated, move to the brightest available position in a cool room or sheltered outdoor spot. Coriander grows best in cool conditions — avoid hot windowsills.
Thin to 15cm spacing by snipping — never pulling — unwanted seedlings. Use the thinnings in the kitchen. Do not attempt to transplant any seedlings to a different container.
The single most important care action for coriander is not care at all — it is the next sowing. Sow a short row or scatter a handful of seeds every 2–3 weeks from March to September. Each sowing produces a crop for 4–6 weeks before bolting. Never rely on a single sowing; always have the next generation germinating before the current crop flowers. This discipline is the entire secret to year-round coriander.
Keep the soil or compost consistently moist at all times. Drought is one of the fastest triggers for bolting — even a single day of severe water stress can send coriander to flower prematurely. In summer, water daily in the evening. Never let the soil crust or dry out between waterings. This is especially critical in the 2–3 weeks immediately after germination when the plants are most vulnerable.
Harvest outer leaves only when plants are 15–20cm tall, leaving the central growing point intact. Never strip all the leaves from a plant — it immediately directs energy into flowering. For cut-and-come-again harvesting, use scissors to cut the whole plant to 5cm above ground — it will regrow once or twice before bolting. Harvest in the morning when the leaves are most aromatic and flavourful.
Coriander bolts from any stress — root disturbance, heat, drought, or pot-bound conditions. Never transplant. Grow in the ground rather than containers for best results. Sow successionally every 2–3 weeks rather than relying on a single sowing.
Full identification and treatment advice is in the Pests and Diseases sections.
Fresh coriander is best used immediately after harvesting — it deteriorates faster than almost any other herb. To extend shelf life, wrap in a damp paper towel, place in a sealed bag or container, and refrigerate. Use within 3–4 days. Alternatively, stand stems in a small glass of water in the fridge. The key is keeping the leaves cool and humid — coriander wilts and yellows very quickly at room temperature.
Coriander freezes surprisingly well for use in cooked dishes. Wash and dry thoroughly, then blend with a small amount of water or olive oil and freeze in ice cube trays. Each cube is a portion of coriander for curries, soups, and sauces. Alternatively, chop finely, freeze flat on a tray, and bag in small portions. Frozen coriander loses its texture and brightness but retains good flavour for up to 3 months.
Ripe coriander seeds — collected when brown and dry from plants allowed to bolt — are a spice in their own right. Store whole in an airtight jar away from light for up to 2 years. Grind freshly as needed — pre-ground coriander loses its flavour within weeks. Use whole in pickling, Indian cooking, and spice blends; ground in curries, marinades, and baked goods. Home-grown seed has a far more complex, citrusy flavour than shop-bought.
The best two coriander seasons are April–May and August–September when days are shorter and temperatures moderate — plan your heaviest sowings around these windows.
Allow a few plants to self-seed each year — coriander self-seeds prolifically and the autumn self-seeded crop often gives the best, most sustained harvest of the year.
💡 Grow Leisure or Calypso in summer and Moroccan for seed — this combination covers both the herb and spice use of the plant from one season's growing.