Rheum × hybridum
Botanically a vegetable but used entirely as a fruit, rhubarb is the first harvest of the year and one of the most welcome. In a garden with a forcing pot and a good variety, stalks can be pulled as early as February — months before any other fresh fruit is available. Plant once and harvest for 20 years with almost no effort beyond division every 5–6 years.
The number of varieties shown for each crop is based on UK consumption data (2025/26) — the more popular the crop, the more variety choices we include.
The earliest and most commonly grown forcing rhubarb. The benchmark variety for anyone who wants to force rhubarb. Responds extremely well to forcing and can produce stalks as early as February under a forcer. Lighter pink colour than later varieties. AGM.
Produces very bright red stalks with good colour throughout their length — many varieties are only red on the outside. Mild, pleasant flavour. Early to mid-season. Good for forcing. A popular choice for those who want consistently red-coloured stalks for visual appeal in puddings and preserves.
Produces slender, bright red stalks with a noticeably sweeter, more delicate flavour than most varieties. Early season. Less vigorous than Victoria or Stockbridge Arrow but the superior flavour makes it a favourite for eating fresh and for cordial making.
The classic, most widely grown rhubarb variety in the UK — reliable, vigorous, very heavy cropping, and well-suited to all regions. Thick, substantial stalks with good flavour. The benchmark variety for productivity. The default choice for any garden.
Thick, deeply coloured stems with excellent flavour and very heavy yields. One of the best all-round maincrop varieties for the domestic garden. Good disease resistance and vigour. The deep red colour is retained in cooking, making it particularly attractive for jams and desserts.
An unusual variety with distinctly sweet, mild flavour with strawberry undertones — quite different from the sharp character of most rhubarb. Very popular where a sweeter, less acidic rhubarb is preferred. Good vigour. The name is entirely accurate — the flavour is genuinely reminiscent of strawberry.
One of the only rhubarb varieties that can be harvested through July and into August — significantly extending the season beyond the usual June cutoff. Milder flavour than most varieties. Can be raised from seed (unusual for rhubarb). The extended season is the primary virtue.
A long-season variety that produces sweet, red-flushed stalks from early spring and, with light picking, keeps cropping well into late summer — one of the longest-cropping rhubarbs available. Vigorous and reliable once established. A good choice if you want rhubarb little and often over many months rather than one big spring flush. Do not pull any stalks in the first year after planting.
A newer variety with very deep red colouration throughout the stalk and excellent rich flavour. Developed in Yorkshire. Vigorous and productive. The outstanding colour — deeper red than most varieties — makes it particularly attractive for preserves and desserts where visual impact matters.
Rhubarb is a long-term, hungry perennial that will occupy the same ground for 20 years or more, so the planting hole deserves real investment: dig at least 60cm wide and 45cm deep and fill generously with well-rotted compost or manure — this preparation only happens once. Position the crown so the topmost pink growing bud sits just at or just below the soil surface, then leave it completely alone in its first full growing season; pulling stalks too early weakens the crown for years afterwards. Remove any flower stems the moment they appear, and mulch generously with compost or manure each spring to keep the crown vigorous for decades of harvests.
Rhubarb is a long-term, hungry perennial. Dig a hole at least 60cm wide and 45cm deep. Fill with a generous quantity of well-rotted compost or manure — the richer the planting, the better the long-term yield. This preparation only happens once in 20 years, so do it thoroughly.
Position the crown so that the topmost pink growing bud is just visible at or just below the soil surface — no more than 2–3cm deep. Too deep and the bud rots; too shallow and the crown dries out. Firm gently around the roots and water in well.
Do not pull a single stalk in the first full growing season after planting. This year of establishment allows the root system to develop to a size that will support decades of productive harvesting. Pulling stalks in year one significantly shortens the productive life of the plant.
Any flower stems that emerge — tall, branching structures quite different from the leaf stalks — must be cut out at the base immediately they appear. Allowing a plant to flower and set seed exhausts the crown and dramatically reduces next year's yield. Do this every year for the life of the plant.
Apply a thick mulch of well-rotted compost or manure around the crown each spring, keeping it clear of the growing buds. This feeds the plant, retains moisture, and suppresses weeds for the full growing season.
Deep roots mine nutrients from the subsoil; cut leaves make an excellent potassium-rich mulch.
Rhubarb's leaves have historically been used to make a home-made pesticide wash for brassica pests — you can use any brassica, not just sprouts.
Most vegetables grow well in proximity, benefiting from the general growing conditions.
Always buy named variety crowns rather than unnamed plants. Named varieties have predictable stalk colour, flavour, and season length. Avoid raising rhubarb from seed — seed-raised plants are variable and many produce inferior green stalks.
Autumn is the best planting time — crowns establish through winter and are ready to grow strongly the following spring. March–April planting also works but produces a slightly less vigorous first growing season.
A single well-grown rhubarb crown produces a huge quantity of stalks. Two or three crowns provide enough for jam, crumbles, and freezing for a household. Space crowns 90cm apart in all directions.
| Region | Sow / plant | Harvest | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Scotland & Far North | Mar–Apr | Apr–Jun | |
| Northern England | Mar–Apr | Apr–Jun | |
| Midlands & Wales | Mar–Apr | Apr–Jun | |
| Ireland & Isle of Man | Mar–Apr | Apr–Jun | |
| South & SE England | Mar–Apr | Mar–Jun | |
| South Coast & SW | Mar–Apr | Mar–Jun |
Rhubarb is propagated by dividing established crowns — a straightforward task done every 5–6 years. No propagator is needed. Division simultaneously renews the plant (which becomes less productive as it ages) and produces multiple new plants for free.
Not Required — Rhubarb divides easily from established crowns without any heat or specialist equipment.
In October–November, use a fork to lift the entire crown out of the ground. A well-established crown will be surprisingly large and heavy — lever carefully from multiple angles to avoid breaking roots unnecessarily.
Place the crown on firm ground and cut through it with a sharp spade. Each division needs at least one visible pink bud (growing point) and a generous portion of root. Divisions with 2–3 buds establish fastest.
The central portion of an old crown is often exhausted and less productive. Replant only the vigorous outer sections. Compost the unproductive centre.
Replant divisions in prepared ground at the correct depth (buds just at or just below soil surface) without delay. Water in and mulch. New plants will establish through winter and produce their first light harvest the following spring.
Forcing rhubarb is one of the most rewarding techniques in the kitchen garden. In late January or early February, place a large terracotta forcer, upturned dustbin, or thick black polythene dome over the crown to exclude all light. Forced stalks emerge pale pink to almost white, slender, very tender, and significantly sweeter than unforced stalks — the absence of light means the plant cannot produce the chlorophyll or oxalic acid that gives unforced rhubarb its sharp flavour. Stalks are ready to pull in 4–6 weeks, typically giving a harvest in February or March. Only force the same crown every other year — forcing exhausts the plant and alternate-year forcing allows full recovery.
Always harvest rhubarb by grasping the stalk firmly at the base and pulling with a gentle twisting motion — never cut. Cutting leaves a stub that rots and can introduce disease into the crown. Pull individual stalks selectively, always leaving at least 4–5 large healthy leaves on the plant at all times to maintain photosynthesis. In the natural season (April–June), harvest freely. Stop all harvesting completely in late June to allow the plant to build energy reserves through the remainder of summer for the following year's growth.
Each spring, as the first buds begin to swell, apply a generous mulch of well-rotted compost or manure around the crown in a wide circle. Keep the mulch clear of the growing buds themselves. This single annual treatment provides the nutrients, moisture retention, and weed suppression needed for a full season of productive growth. Rhubarb responds very well to generous organic feeding — the difference between a well-mulched and an unmulched crown in stalk production by midsummer is dramatic.
Rhubarb flower stems — tall, thick, branching structures topped with small cream-coloured flowers — must be removed the moment they appear, every year, without exception. A flowering rhubarb puts enormous energy into seed production that is irreplaceable as a resource for the following year's crown development. Cut the flower stem to the base using a sharp knife. Multiple flower stems may appear through the season — remove each one as it develops. If the urge to let one flower for ornamental reasons is strong, compromise by removing it before seed is set.
Crown rot causes the crown to become soft and discoloured — remove and burn affected crowns, do not replant in the same site for at least 3 years. Honey fungus (Armillaria) attacks the crown and roots — look for black bootlace-like mycelium beneath the soil surface and white mycelium under the bark at the base. Remove and burn affected crowns. Slugs can damage emerging stalks in spring — use copper tape rings or nematode treatments around the crown base.
Full identification and treatment advice is in the Pests and Diseases sections.
Freshly pulled rhubarb stalks keep for up to a week wrapped in damp newspaper in the refrigerator. Stalks deteriorate rapidly at room temperature and should be processed or refrigerated within hours of pulling. Forced rhubarb in particular should be used quickly — its delicate flavour diminishes rapidly after harvest.
Rhubarb freezes exceptionally well and retains all its cooking quality from frozen. Wash, trim, and cut into 2–3cm pieces. Open freeze on a tray until solid, then bag. Alternatively, freeze as a purée (cooked with sugar) ready to use directly. Use within 18 months. Frozen rhubarb is ideal for crumbles, pies, compotes, and jam through winter and spring.
Rhubarb and ginger jam is a classic combination. Rhubarb chutney pairs extremely well with cheese and cold meats, and rhubarb cordial is a beautiful pink drink diluted with sparkling water. Follow a tested recipe.
Force one crown in year one, leave it unforced in year two while forcing a second crown, then return to the first in year three. This rotation allows each crown to fully recover between forcing years, maintaining productivity for decades. Never force the same crown two years in succession.
The Yorkshire Triangle (Rothwell, Morley, and Wakefield) is famous for its forced rhubarb, grown in complete darkness in heated sheds producing bright pink, extraordinarily sweet stalks in the depths of winter. The same principle applies in the garden — complete darkness is the key to the palest, sweetest, most tender forced stalks.
The vast leaves of established rhubarb plants make them excellent ground cover for suppressing weeds in areas between other fruit crops. The ornamental value of the large architectural leaves and vibrant red stalks in spring is considerable — rhubarb earns its place in a well-designed kitchen garden on aesthetic grounds alone.