Mediterranean

Aubergines

Solanum melongena

A whole glossy dark purple aubergine beside a cut slice showing the pale flesh
Open the full interactive aubergines guide →

⚡ Quick start

  • Sow Jan–Mar in a heated propagator at 21–24°C — aubergines need the longest season of any UK vegetable
  • Prick out into 9cm pots when first true leaves appear; handle by leaves, never the stem
  • Pot on progressively to final 30–35cm containers as roots fill each pot
  • Pinch out growing tip at 30cm to encourage a bushy, branching plant
  • Plant in greenhouse border or large pot after last frost — never below 15°C
  • Water consistently and feed with high-potash fertiliser weekly once flowers appear
  • Harvest while skin is still glossy — dull skin means the fruit is past its best
🌱 SowJan–Mar (indoors, heated)
🌾 HarvestAug–Oct
☀ PositionFull sun — greenhouse preferred
📐 Spacing60cm
DifficultyChallenging

⚡ Quick facts

Difficulty
Challenging
Crop type
Tender Annual
Position
Full Sun — Greenhouse Strongly Recommended
Soil
Rich, Well-Drained, Moisture-Retentive
Container friendly
Yes — large pots in a greenhouse
Greenhouse recommended
Yes — essential in northern UK
Outdoor suitable
South UK only in warm summers
Frost hardy
No — extremely cold-sensitive

01 About

Glossy, dramatic, and deeply satisfying to grow. Aubergines need warmth and patience but reward the dedicated grower with spectacular fruit from midsummer through autumn. A heated propagator is essential — they are the most heat-demanding crop in the British kitchen garden.

02 What to Grow

Aubergines of different types on a wooden table: long purple, striped, round white and dark oval

Aubergines divide into classic purple types, long Asian varieties, and novelty coloured forms. Classic purple F1 hybrids are the most reliable for UK growing. Long, slender Asian types such as Ping Tung have thinner skin and a milder, sweeter flavour. White and striped heritage varieties add drama to the plot — Rosa Bianca and Listada de Gandia are outstanding for both looks and flavour.

03 Varieties

The number of varieties shown for each crop is based on UK consumption data (2025/26) — the more popular the crop, the more variety choices we include.

🍆 Classic Purple

The workhorses of the British greenhouse — dark, glossy, reliable fruits with rich flavour. These oval to cylindrical varieties are the easiest to grow and the most productive in UK conditions.

Moneymaker aubergine (for the greenhouse, good for beginners, high yield): long, glossy deep purple fruits hanging on the plant

Moneymaker

Classic · Long

One of the most popular UK varieties. Long, cylindrical, deep purple glossy fruits with meaty texture and good flavour. Strong, productive and reliable over a long season in a UK greenhouse.

  • Greenhouse
  • Beginners
  • ⭐ Yield
Bonica aubergine (F1 hybrid, for the greenhouse, for containers, early, high yield): a cluster of smooth, deep purple oval fruits on the plant

Bonica F1

Classic · Oval

Compact, early-fruiting F1 with smooth, deep purple oval fruits in clusters. Excellent for container growing and smaller greenhouses. One of the best choices for those with limited space.

  • AGM
  • Greenhouse
  • F1
  • Container
  • Early
  • ⭐ Yield
Black Beauty aubergine (Heritage, for the greenhouse, top flavour, good for beginners): large, glossy purple-black oval fruits on the plant

Black Beauty

Classic · Large

The benchmark heritage aubergine. Large, glossy, deep purple-black oval fruits with dense creamy flesh and excellent mild flavour. The variety that defined what an aubergine looks like.

  • Greenhouse
  • Heritage
  • ⭐ Flavour
  • Beginners

🌿 Slim & Striped

Long Asian types and dramatic striped heritage varieties. Thinner skin, milder flavour, and a different eating experience from classic types.

Ping Tung Long aubergine (for the greenhouse, Asian, top flavour, early): long, slender lavender-purple fruits hanging on the plant

Ping Tung Long

Asian · Long

A beautiful slender Asian-style aubergine with long, bright lavender-purple fruits in clusters. Thin skin, very mild and sweet flesh. Highly productive and early — one of the best Asian types for UK growing.

  • Greenhouse
  • Asian
  • ⭐ Flavour
  • Early
Listada de Gandia aubergine (Heritage, for the greenhouse, top flavour): two oval fruits striped deep purple and white on the plant

Listada de Gandia

Heritage · Striped

A stunning Italian heritage variety with distinctive deep purple and white striped oval fruits. Milder and less bitter than classic types with delicate creamy flesh. A showstopper on the plot.

  • Greenhouse
  • Heritage
  • ⭐ Flavour
Calliope aubergine (for the greenhouse, for containers, compact, high yield): small purple-and-white streaked fruits on a plant in a fabric pot

Calliope

Compact · Streaked

A compact variety producing clusters of small to medium oval fruits with vivid purple and white streaked skin. Heavy-cropping and attractive. Excellent for containers and smaller growing spaces.

  • Greenhouse
  • Container
  • Compact
  • ⭐ Yield

⚪ White & Novelty

White and cream-skinned varieties with a milder, more delicate flavour than purple types.

White Gem aubergine (Heritage, for the greenhouse, novelty, top flavour): small round pure white fruits like eggs on the plant

White Gem

White · Round

Produces clusters of small, round, pure white fruits resembling eggs. Mild, tender and delicate, with a flavour quite different from purple types. A genuine curiosity that always delights visitors.

  • Greenhouse
  • Heritage
  • Novelty
  • ⭐ Flavour
Bianca aubergine (Heritage, for the greenhouse, top flavour, white): pale ivory oval fruits on a plant in a fabric pot

Bianca

White · Oval

Pale ivory-cream smooth oval fruits with a very mild, almost sweet flavour. Less bitter than any purple variety. Superb grilled or roasted where the pale flesh stays cream-coloured. A chef favourite.

  • Greenhouse
  • Heritage
  • ⭐ Flavour
  • White
Rosa Bianca aubergine (Heritage, for the greenhouse, top flavour, Italian): round fruits blushed rose-pink and cream on a potted plant

Rosa Bianca

Heritage · Blush

A beautiful round Italian heritage variety with stunning rose-pink and cream blush skin. Meaty, almost seedless flesh with exceptional mild flavour. One of the finest aubergines for the kitchen garden.

  • Greenhouse
  • Heritage
  • ⭐ Flavour
  • Italian

04 Where to Source

Aubergine seed packets beside young aubergine plants on a potting bench

Aubergines are widely available as seeds from specialist seed companies. Quality F1 varieties are worth the premium. Ready-grown plug plants are available from garden centres and online nurseries from April and are an excellent option for those without a heated propagator.

A hand posting seed packets through a front-door letterbox

📬 Seeds by Post

Specialist seed companies offer the widest variety selection including F1 types, Asian long varieties, and heritage forms. Order by January to ensure availability of popular F1 varieties.

Rows of young aubergine plants in grey pots with picture labels at a garden centre

🏪 Garden Centres

Garden centres stock plug plants from April. A sensible shortcut if you cannot provide the heat required for germination. Choose stocky, dark green plants — avoid anything pale or leggy.

A small pile of pale aubergine seeds in the palm of a hand

🌱 Grow from Seed

Sow your own in Jan–Mar for the widest choice of varieties. A heated propagator or warm airing cupboard is non-negotiable for reliable germination above 21°C.

Timing tip: Order seeds in January and February. Popular varieties sell out quickly. Garden centres and markets are a reliable backup from April onwards.

05 Planting Options

🏠 Greenhouse

An aubergine plant in a greenhouse bed with purple flowers and dark fruits

A greenhouse is the ideal environment for aubergines in the UK. Plant into the greenhouse border or in large pots. The reliable warmth and shelter allows the long growing season aubergines require. Aim for a minimum night temperature of 15°C.

Suitable varieties: All varieties. The standard growing method for maximum UK yields.

🛍️ Growbag

A bushy aubergine plant with dark purple fruits growing in a greenhouse bag

Two plants per standard growbag in a greenhouse or polytunnel. A reliable and straightforward method — the rich compost suits aubergines well. Water frequently as growbags dry out fast in summer. Push canes through the bag for support.

Suitable varieties: All compact varieties, especially Bonica F1 and Moneymaker.

🪣 Container / Pot

An aubergine plant with glossy purple fruits and flowers in a large terracotta pot

Aubergines grow well in large containers of 30–35cm diameter. Works best in a greenhouse or on a very sheltered, south-facing patio. Use a rich peat-free compost with 20% perlite. Water daily in hot weather — containers dry out extremely fast.

Suitable varieties: Bonica F1, White Gem, Ping Tung Long — compact and prolific types.

06 Companion Planting

✅ Grow nearby

  • A healthy, leafy basil plant in a pot on a sunny windowsill

    🌿 Basil

    Basil is the classic companion for aubergine and other solanums. It is thought to repel aphids and improve the flavour of neighbouring crops. Grow basil at the base of aubergine plants in the greenhouse.

  • A mature spinach plant with large, dark green crinkled leaves in a garden bed

    🌿 Spinach

    Low-growing spinach uses the space beneath aubergine plants without competing for the same nutrients. Keeps soil cool and moist around the base.

  • A bushy French marigold covered in orange and yellow flowers, used as a companion plant

    🌸 Marigolds

    French marigolds (Tagetes) planted at the greenhouse perimeter deter whitefly and aphids, which are the main greenhouse pests of aubergines.

❌ Keep apart

  • 🥔 Potatoes — Same family (Solanaceae). Share blight and other diseases. Keep well apart and rotate strictly.
  • 🌿 Fennel — Allelopathic root chemicals from fennel inhibit the growth of aubergines and most other vegetables.
  • 🍅 Tomatoes — Same family. Avoid growing side by side in a greenhouse to reduce disease transfer and competition.

07 Sowing — How To

Aubergines are the most heat-demanding crop you can sow. Germination requires a consistent 21–24°C — a heated propagator is the best option, but a warm airing cupboard, the top of a boiler, or a heat mat under a seed tray works equally well. Sow in January or February for maximum growing time. The process from seed to harvest takes 6–7 months.

  1. Pouring seed compost from a bag into a modular tray

    Fill tray with compost

    Fill a module tray or small pots with fresh seed compost. Firm lightly and water well before sowing.

  2. Placing one aubergine seed into a cell of compost with tweezers

    Sow seeds

    Press one seed into each module at a depth of 6mm. Aubergine seeds are small — tweezers help place them accurately.

  3. Sprinkling vermiculite over sown cells in a modular tray

    Cover with vermiculite

    Cover with a thin layer of vermiculite or fine compost. Vermiculite retains moisture while allowing air circulation.

  4. Pushing a white plant label into a sown modular tray

    Label and propagate

    Label with variety and date, then place in a heated propagator set to 21–24°C — or a warm airing cupboard. Keep covered to maintain humidity.

  5. Moving an aubergine seedling from its cell into its own pot with a dibber

    Prick out

    When the first pair of true leaves appears (2–3 weeks after germination), prick out into 9cm pots of potting compost.

  6. Young aubergine plants in pots outside on a sunny patio to harden off

    Harden off

    Before planting out, harden off over 7–10 days by placing plants outdoors in a sheltered spot during the day, bringing in at night.

Map of the UK and Ireland coloured by growing region, used with the regional timing table
Regional sowing timing
RegionSow / plantHarvestNotes
Scotland & Far NorthFeb–MarAug–SepSow Feb–Mar; plant out late May in greenhouse only
Northern EnglandJan–MarAug–SepSow Jan–Mar; plant out May in greenhouse only
Midlands & WalesJan–MarAug–OctSow Jan–Mar; plant out May in greenhouse
Ireland & Isle of ManJan–MarAug–OctSow Jan–Mar; plant out May in greenhouse
South & SE EnglandJan–FebAug–OctSow Jan–Feb; plant out May in greenhouse
South Coast & SWJan–FebJul–OctSow Jan–Feb; plant out May in greenhouse or outdoor

08 Using a Propagator

Aubergines need consistent warmth of 21–24°C to germinate reliably — more than most UK homes provide in winter. A heated propagator is the best solution and makes a genuine difference with this crop. If you don't have one, a warm airing cupboard, the top of a boiler, or a heat mat under a seed tray are all good alternatives. Move seedlings to the brightest spot available the moment they emerge.

A heated propagator with a temperature dial, full of young aubergine seedlings

Heated propagator

A heated propagator set to 21–24°C gives the most reliable germination for aubergines. Once seedlings emerge, open the vents gradually over several days before removing the lid entirely, then move to a bright south-facing windowsill at 18°C minimum.

Unheated propagator

An unheated propagator on a warm windowsill can work from mid-February onwards when ambient temperatures are higher, but germination will be slower and less even. For January sowings, a warm airing cupboard or boiler top is more reliable than an unheated propagator in a cool room.

An unheated propagator on a windowsill with a chalkboard of sowing tips

Standard unheated propagator — A lidded seed tray traps warmth and humidity around germinating seeds without electricity. Performance depends entirely on room temperature — best placed on a warm windowsill and used from March onwards. Replace the lid promptly after watering. Remove it completely the moment seedlings emerge to prevent damping off.

An empty lidded seed tray on a heat mat by a window, with a thermometer and notes
Windowsill alternative: A bright south-facing windowsill can substitute from late February. Place a clear polythene bag loosely over the pot during germination. Remove immediately once seedlings appear.

09 Soil Requirements

pH
5.5–6.8
Best
Loam, Sandy loam
Tolerates
Clay loam
Avoid
Waterlogged, Cold heavy clay
💡 Warm, well-drained soil. Container growing works well.

10 Ongoing Care

Watering a fruiting aubergine plant at the base of its pot

💧 Watering

Aubergines need even, consistent moisture — never let the compost dry out or become waterlogged. Water at the base, not over the foliage. Daily watering may be needed in a greenhouse in summer. Inconsistent moisture causes blossom drop and misshapen fruits.

Watering aubergines in a raised bed, with a bottle of tomato and vegetable feed beside them

🌿 Feeding

Once the first flowers appear, feed weekly with a high-potash liquid fertiliser (tomato feed). Continue throughout the fruiting season. Aubergines are hungry feeders — insufficient feeding significantly reduces yield and fruit size.

A hand pinching out the growing tip of an aubergine plant with flowers and fruits

✂️ Pinching & Thinning

When plants reach 30cm, pinch out the central growing tip to encourage a bushy, branching plant. Each plant can support 4–6 fruits to full size. Remove excess small fruits once several have set to concentrate energy into the remaining ones.

A fruiting aubergine plant tied to two bamboo canes

🎋 Supporting

Developing aubergines are surprisingly heavy. Support branches with canes and soft ties, or use a tomato cage. Unsupported branches will snap under the weight of developing fruit. Check ties regularly as plants grow.

11 Watch Out For

Warning

Aubergines are very cold-sensitive — a single cold night below 10°C can check growth severely. Keep above 15°C at all times. In the UK, a greenhouse is strongly recommended for reliable fruiting.

🐛 Insects & pests

  • 🐜 Aphids (Blackfly & Greenfly) — Curled, distorted, or stunted growing tips — aphids inject saliva that causes leaf curl to protect them
  • 🕷 Spider Mite — Fine, silky webbing on the underside of leaves and between growing tips — the definitive identification sign
  • 🤍 Mealybug — White, fluffy or mealy patches in leaf axils, stem joints, and under leaves — the insects themselves
  • 🐌 Slugs & Snails — Silver slime trails on leaves, soil, and pots — often the first sign before damage is found

🍄 Diseases to watch

  • 🩶 Botrytis (Grey Mould) — Botrytis cinerea (grey mould) is the most ubiquitous fungal pathogen in temperate gardens — present in virtually every garden soil and on plant debris. It becomes a disease only when conditions favour it: cool, humid, poorly ventilated environments with damaged or senescent plant tissue. In a greenhouse in autumn it can destroy an entire tomato or grape crop.
  • 🌿 Fusarium Wilt — Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) is a soil-borne vascular disease that invades root systems and blocks the water-conducting tissue of the plant. Infected plants die of internal drought even with adequate soil moisture. Different formae speciales (strains) target specific host plants — asparagus fusarium is different to tomato fusarium.

Full identification and treatment advice is in the Pests and Diseases sections.

12 Harvesting

Cutting a glossy ripe aubergine from the plant with secateurs

🔪 Cut with Secateurs

Cut fruits from the plant with secateurs rather than pulling, leaving a short stem attached — aubergine stems are woody and tearing can damage the plant. Harvest when the skin is glossy and taut; a dull, wrinkled skin means the fruit is overripe and will taste bitter.

13 Storage & Preserving

A wicker basket of freshly picked glossy aubergines

🍆 Use Fresh

Aubergines are at their absolute best within 2–3 days of harvest. Store unwrapped in the fridge for up to a week. Never freeze raw aubergine — it becomes mushy on thawing. Harvest while skin is still glossy and taut.

Halved aubergines roasted golden brown on a baking tray

🔥 Roasting & Grilling

Roasting or grilling is the finest way to cook homegrown aubergine. Halve, score, brush with oil and roast at 200°C until completely tender and caramelised. Grilled slices on a griddle pan create beautiful char marks and a smoky flavour.

14 Expert Tips

💡 Warmth is Non-Negotiable

The single most common reason aubergines fail to germinate is insufficient heat. If you do not have a heated propagator, a warm airing cupboard or the top of a boiler is a genuinely effective free alternative — the key is consistent warmth of 21°C minimum. Below 18°C germination becomes erratic and seeds may rot.

💡 Slow Start is Normal

Aubergine seedlings grow slowly. Do not be alarmed if nothing appears for 10 days at the correct temperature. Patience and consistent warmth are the key — do not increase watering, which risks rot.

💡 Pinching is Essential

Pinching out the growing tip at 30cm is essential, not optional. An unpinched plant produces one or two fruits on a weak stem. A pinched plant produces four to six branches, each capable of carrying fruit — a dramatic difference in yield.

💡 Aphid Watch

Aubergines and aphids have a close relationship. Check the underside of leaves weekly. A soft soap spray applied early prevents a colony — once aphids get into the growing tips they are harder to control.

15 Common Mistakes

⚠ Sowing & Germination

  • Not using a heated propagator — aubergines cannot germinate reliably below 18°C; use a warm airing cupboard or boiler top as a free alternative.
  • Sowing too late — a February sow gives only 5–6 months before the first frosts; sow in January for the best results.
  • Overwatering seedlings — consistently wet compost causes damping off.
  • Moving seedlings to a dark location — insufficient light creates leggy weak plants.

⚠ Ongoing Care

  • Not pinching out the growing tip — the most common reason for low yields.
  • Allowing too many fruits to develop — thin to 4–6 per plant for best size and flavour.
  • Inconsistent watering — fluctuating moisture causes blossom drop and misshapen fruits.
  • Harvesting too late — dull skin means the fruit is over-mature and will be bitter.

16 See Also

Open the full interactive aubergines guide →Browse all 91 crops