Brassica rapa (Pekinensis)
Chinese cabbage forms large, dense heads — barrel-shaped or tall and cylindrical depending on variety — with crisp, sweet, pale inner leaves and a remarkably mild flavour for a brassica. It is the essential ingredient in kimchi and the backbone of many East Asian salads and stir-fries. In the UK kitchen garden it delivers a substantial, productive autumn crop from a midsummer sowing, filling the gap when summer crops are finishing and the season is turning.
Chinese cabbage divides into two main forms: barrel types (compact, rounded heads with pale, tightly packed inner leaves — the most common supermarket form) and cylindrical types (tall, upright, denser heads with a firmer texture and stronger flavour). Both are harvested in autumn from a midsummer sowing. Barrel types are faster and somewhat more bolt-tolerant; cylindrical types produce larger heads and store better. Always choose bolt-resistant F1 varieties for UK growing.
The number of varieties shown for each crop is based on UK consumption data (2025/26) — the more popular the crop, the more variety choices we include.
Rounded, compact barrel-headed varieties — the classic Chinese cabbage form. Dense pale inner leaves, quick to mature, and the most bolt-resistant group. Best choice for UK growing and first-time growers.
The most widely recommended Chinese cabbage for UK growing. Dense, firm barrel heads with excellent bolt resistance. Pale, crisp inner leaves with outstanding sweetness. A proven reliable performer for autumn harvest.
A compact barrel type producing smaller, firm heads ideal for smaller plots and those who want single-serving heads. Good downy mildew resistance. Reliable bolt resistance for a compact variety.
A miniature Chinese cabbage producing tight, dense little heads ideal for containers and small gardens. Excellent for households where a full-sized head is too large. Harvest one at a time over several weeks. Very firm texture.
Tall, upright cylindrical varieties with tightly furled inner leaves, firm texture, and a slightly stronger flavour. Larger heads than barrel types and excellent storage. Best for kimchi and recipes requiring substantial leaf volume.
A tall, cylindrical Chinese cabbage with a very tight, firm head and excellent disease resistance. Produces large heads with a high proportion of pale, sweet inner leaf. One of the best varieties for kimchi-making and longer storage.
Classic tall cylindrical type with densely packed, pale inner leaves and a firm, upright structure. Reliable bolt resistance. Excellent flavour — sweet and mild with a satisfying crunch. Good all-round variety for cooking and salads.
An unusual cylindrical variety with distinctly red-tinged outer leaves contrasting with pale inner leaves. Decorative in both the garden and the kitchen. Good bolt resistance. Adds colour to salads and kimchi.
Chinese cabbage seed is not widely available in garden centres — specialist online vegetable seed companies are the main source. F1 varieties offer the best bolt resistance and reliability for UK conditions. Seeds are affordable and a single packet provides far more than most kitchen gardens need. Order in late winter or early spring for July sowing; most seed companies stock named F1 varieties including Bilko, Kasumi, Tokyo, Richi, Minuet, and Scarlette.
Modules allow an early start and careful transplanting. Sow in late July in 5–7cm modules. Transplant at 4–5 leaves (2–3 weeks after sowing) before roots fill the module. Handle the rootball with great care — root disturbance is a primary bolt trigger. Firm in well and net immediately.
Suitable varieties: All varieties. Best for Scotland, Northern England, and gardeners who want maximum control.
| Region | Sow / plant | Harvest | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Scotland & Far North | Jul–Aug | Sep–Oct | |
| Northern England | Jul–Aug | Sep–Nov | |
| Midlands & Wales | Jul–Aug | Sep–Nov | |
| Ireland & Isle of Man | Jul–Aug | Sep–Nov | |
| South & SE England | Jul–Aug | Oct–Dec | |
| South Coast & SW | Jul–Aug | Oct–Dec |
Sow direct into well-prepared, fertile soil from mid-July. Make drills 1cm deep, 35–40cm apart. Sow 2–3 seeds every 30–35cm and thin to the strongest. Cover immediately with fine insect-proof mesh. Direct sowing avoids transplant shock and is equally reliable from mid-July onwards in all UK regions.
Suitable varieties: All varieties. Simplest and lowest-risk method from July onwards.
| Region | Sow / plant | Harvest | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Scotland & Far North | Jul | Sep–Oct | |
| Northern England | Jul–Aug | Sep–Nov | |
| Midlands & Wales | Jul–Aug | Sep–Nov | |
| Ireland & Isle of Man | Jul–Aug | Sep–Nov | |
| South & SE England | Jul–Aug | Oct–Dec | |
| South Coast & SW | Jul–Aug | Oct–Dec |
Excellent aphid and flea beetle trap crop. Plant at the bed perimeter — pests preferentially attack nasturtiums, protecting the Chinese cabbage.
Attracts parasitic wasps that parasitise cabbage white caterpillars. A valuable companion alongside all brassica crops.
Ideal catch crop between Chinese cabbage plants — shallow-rooted, matures before Chinese cabbage needs the full space.
Do not sow before mid-July in most UK regions — earlier sowings almost always bolt before forming a head. The decreasing day length after the summer solstice is the key trigger for head formation.
Use a good-quality seed compost in 5–7cm modules. Sow 2–3 seeds per cell at 5mm depth. Thin to the strongest seedling. Keep moist and in a warm, bright spot — germination in 3–5 days.
Grow on in good light for 2–3 weeks until seedlings have 4–5 leaves. Do not allow roots to become pot-bound — transplant promptly. Root disturbance is a major bolt trigger.
Water modules thoroughly an hour before transplanting. Plant into well-prepared, fertile soil, disturbing roots as little as possible. Space 30–35cm apart in rows 35–40cm apart. Net immediately after planting.
Water generously after transplanting and apply a light mulch around plants to retain moisture. Consistent water is critical — stress triggers bolting. Check nets are secure against cabbage whites.
Rake soil to a fine, firm tilth. Incorporate a general fertiliser or well-rotted compost before sowing. Chinese cabbage is hungry — do not skimp on soil preparation.
Draw drills 1cm deep, 35–40cm apart. Sow 2–3 seeds every 30–35cm. Cover and firm gently. Water using a fine rose. Germination in 3–5 days in warm soil.
Apply fine insect-proof mesh (0.8mm) immediately after sowing. Do not leave plants unprotected even for a day — cabbage white butterflies and flea beetles find them within hours.
Thin to the strongest seedling at each station (30–35cm apart) when seedlings have 3–4 true leaves. Remove thinnings cleanly — they are excellent in salads.
Keep soil consistently moist — dry spells cause bolting and loose, open heads. Apply a liquid feed every 2–3 weeks once plants are established. Heads develop from September onwards.
Net from day one — Chinese cabbage attracts every brassica pest in the garden. Cabbage white butterfly caterpillars can strip a plant overnight; flea beetles riddle seedlings with holes in hot weather; slugs attack at soil level. Use fine insect-proof mesh (0.8mm or finer) from sowing or transplanting and keep it on until harvest. Check nets are weighted or buried at the edges — butterflies are remarkably adept at finding gaps.
Consistent watering is essential — Chinese cabbage is a thirsty, hungry crop that bolts or produces loose open heads under stress. Water deeply twice a week in dry weather rather than little and often. Apply a balanced liquid feed every 2–3 weeks from establishment through head formation. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds once heads begin to form — they produce soft, disease-prone growth.
Harvest when the head feels dense and firm under gentle pressure — tap the top and listen for a solid sound. Cut at the base with a sharp knife, leaving a 3–4cm stump. Some varieties re-sprout loose leaves from the stump. Heads can be left in the ground for several weeks once mature if protected from hard frost — cover with fleece below -3°C. Harvest all heads before the first hard frost in colder northern regions.
Bolting (running to seed before forming a head) is the most common failure — almost always caused by sowing before mid-July. Chinese cabbage is also susceptible to all brassica pests: net from day one against cabbage white butterfly, flea beetle, and slugs. Clubroot can persist in soil for 20 years — rotate all brassicas and lime acidic soil above pH 6.5 to reduce risk.
Full identification and treatment advice is in the Pests and Diseases sections.
Chinese cabbage keeps excellently in the refrigerator — far better than summer lettuces. Remove any damaged outer leaves, wrap loosely in a damp cloth or place in a breathable bag, and store in the crisper drawer. A whole head keeps for 1–2 weeks. Do not wash until just before use — excess moisture accelerates decay.
Chinese cabbage stores well in a cool, frost-free shed, garage, or cellar at 1–5°C. Wrap individual heads in newspaper and place in a crate or on a shelf. Inspect weekly and remove any showing signs of softening. Stored this way, firm heads keep for 3–4 weeks. Cylindrical types with tight, dense heads generally store better than looser barrel types.
Chinese cabbage is the foundation of kimchi. Stir-fried, braised, or used raw in Asian slaws, the mild sweet flavour makes it one of the most versatile autumn vegetables.
Chinese cabbage bolts in response to both high temperatures and long day-length — both apply before the summer solstice. The sweet spot is mid-July to early August. Sow too early and the plant flowers before forming a head every time. In Scotland and the far north, stick to the later end of this window. In the South, late-July sowings are usually the most productive.
Cabbage white butterflies find brassicas within hours of planting or germination. A single day without netting in summer is enough for eggs to be laid. Apply fine insect-proof mesh (0.8mm) the moment plants are in the ground and do not lift it until harvest. Weigh or bury the edges — butterflies find gaps very quickly.
Chinese cabbage, like many brassicas, converts starches to sugars in response to cold — a light frost genuinely makes the leaves sweeter and more tender. Do not rush to harvest at the first frost. Protect with fleece once temperatures fall below -3°C and harvest through November and into December in mild areas.