Oriental Salad Leaf

Mizuna & Mibuna

Brassica rapa (Nipposinica)

A large clump of mizuna with feathery, deeply cut green leaves in a raised bed
Open the full interactive mizuna & mibuna guide →

⚡ Quick start

  • Sow direct in short rows 1cm deep from March — germinates in 5–7 days
  • Apply fine insect mesh immediately — flea beetle attacks seedlings within days
  • Thin to 10cm for cut-and-come-again, or 25–30cm for full rosette plants
  • First harvest of baby leaves in 3–4 weeks, full leaves in 5–8 weeks
  • Cut 3–5cm above soil — plants regrow 3–5 times per sowing
  • Sow every 4 weeks for continuous supply; August sowing gives finest autumn crop
  • Module-sow to avoid flea beetle damage on vulnerable seedlings
🌱 SowMar–Sep (direct or modules)
🌾 Harvest5–8 weeks after sowing
☀ PositionSun or part shade
📐 Spacing10–30cm
DifficultyEasy

⚡ Quick facts

Difficulty
Very Easy
Crop type
Hardy Annual (some types biennial in mild winters)
Position
Full Sun or Part Shade
Soil
Any fertile, moisture-retentive soil
Container friendly
Yes — excellent in large containers and deep window boxes
Greenhouse recommended
For winter crops and earliest spring harvests
Outdoor suitable
Yes — all UK regions, March to November
Frost hardy
Yes — tolerates moderate frost; excellent autumn and winter crop

01 About

Mizuna is one of the most productive and versatile oriental salad leaves you can grow in the British kitchen garden — fast from seed, hardy through autumn and winter, and delivering a mild, pleasantly peppery flavour over a remarkably long season. Its feathery, deeply cut leaves are beautiful in the garden and in the salad bowl. Mibuna, its close relative, produces smooth, strap-shaped leaves with a stronger, more distinctly mustard-like flavour that is outstanding cooked as well as raw. Both regrow prolifically after cutting and will produce leaf from spring right through to the first hard frosts of winter.

02 What to Grow

A raised bed filled edge to edge with dense, feathery mizuna

Mizuna (Brassica rapa var. nipposinica) and Mibuna (Brassica rapa var. nipposinica) are Japanese brassica leaf crops that have become indispensable in UK kitchen gardens. Mizuna is the more widely grown: its deeply pinnate, feathery leaves with rounded lobes have a refreshing, mild peppery flavour that works equally well in salads and stir-fries. Mibuna produces smooth, undivided, strap-shaped leaves with a more assertive, mustard-influenced flavour. Red and purple-leaved varieties of mizuna add striking colour to both the garden and the plate. All types are fast, productive, and far more tolerant of autumn cold than most salad crops — autumn sowings from August to September produce some of the finest salad leaf of the entire year.

03 Varieties

The number of varieties shown for each crop is based on UK consumption data (2025/26) — the more popular the crop, the more variety choices we include.

🌿 Mizuna Types

Brassica rapa var. nipposinica. Feathery, deeply pinnate leaves. Mild, fresh, slightly peppery flavour. Cut-and-come-again.

Mizuna Early: a bunch of bright green, feathery, deeply cut leaves on white stems

Mizuna Early

The standard variety. Feathery, deeply cut, bright green leaves. Mild, fresh, slightly peppery flavour. Very fast-growing. The most widely grown and reliable type for all UK conditions.

Red Knight mizuna: a bunch of deeply cut red-purple leaves on magenta stems

Red Knight

Deeply pinnate leaves with vivid red-purple stems and leaf edges. Striking colour in the salad bowl. Slightly stronger flavour than green mizuna. Same vigour and productivity.

Kyona mizuna: a bunch of very fine, finely cut light green leaves on white stems

Kyona

Traditional Japanese variety with broad-cut, dark green narrow leaves and white midribs. Very vigorous. Milder flavour than standard mizuna. Excellent for baby leaf and larger plant production.

🌱 Mibuna & Oriental Types

Smooth, strap-shaped leaves with a stronger, more assertive mustard flavour. Outstanding cooked as well as raw.

Mibuna: a bunch of smooth, narrow, strap-like green leaves on white stems

Mibuna

Smooth, undivided, strap-like dark green leaves. Stronger, more mustardy flavour than mizuna. Outstanding briefly wilted or stir-fried. Very productive and hardy. Regrows reliably after cutting.

Red Frills mizuna: a bunch of frilly, deeply cut purple leaves on magenta stems

Red Frills

Deeply cut leaves with dramatic red-purple colouring on both the leaf surface and stems. Visually stunning in mixed salad beds. Slightly stronger peppery flavour than green mizuna. Very ornamental.

Tokyo Beauty mizuna card photo: an upright bunch of smooth, rounded green leaves

Tokyo Beauty

Compact, upright habit with deep green, deeply pinnate leaves and particularly mild flavour. Bred for uniform appearance and consistent production. Good bolt resistance. Ideal for successional baby leaf production.

04 Where to Source

Card photo for Where to Source: a feathery mizuna plant beside a smooth-leaved mibuna plant in soil

Mizuna seed is now widely available from most UK seed companies and garden centres. The standard green mizuna is widely stocked. Named varieties including Red Frills, Kyona, and Red Knight are best found through specialist online seed companies. Mibuna is less commonly stocked but is available from oriental vegetable specialists and several general seed companies. Mixed oriental salad leaf packets often include both mizuna and mibuna as components — a useful way to try several types at once.

05 Planting Options

🌿 Open Ground (Direct Sow)

A bed of mizuna growing in open ground with a "Mizuna" label

The standard method. Rake the soil lightly and draw a 1cm-deep drill. Scatter seeds thinly and cover with fine soil. Mizuna germinates in 5–7 days in warm conditions and 7–14 days in cooler autumn temperatures. Apply fine insect mesh immediately after sowing. For baby leaf production, broadcast-sow densely across a band and harvest at 8–10cm. For full rosette plants, sow in rows and thin to 25–30cm.

Suitable varieties: All varieties. Particularly effective for main-season and autumn crops.

🪴 Module Sowing (Indoors)

Young mizuna seedlings with feathery leaves in a module tray

Module sowing is particularly effective for mizuna because it avoids the most vulnerable flea beetle window. Seedlings that are already 5–7cm tall when transplanted outdoors suffer far less damage than directly sown seedlings. Sow 2–3 seeds per module cell in multipurpose compost; thin to one. Plant out when roots fill the module at 3–4 weeks. This method is especially useful for early spring and midsummer sowings when flea beetle pressure is at its peak.

Suitable varieties: All varieties. Particularly useful for spring and summer sowings.

06 Companion Planting

✅ Grow nearby

  • Green and red lettuces of several kinds growing together in a bed

    🥬 Lettuce

    Mild-flavoured lettuce balances mizuna in a mixed salad bed and the two crops can be interplanted to make the most of available space.

  • A bunch of freshly pulled red and white radishes with their leaves

    🔴 Radishes

    Radishes mature quickly and can be harvested from between mizuna rows before the mizuna plants need the full space. Both are cool-season crops with complementary timing.

  • A mature spinach plant with large, dark green crinkled leaves in a garden bed

    🌿 Spinach

    Spinach and mizuna share similar conditions and harvest windows. They work well in mixed beds and produce complementary flavours in the salad bowl.

❌ Keep apart

  • 🥦 Other Brassicas — Mizuna is a brassica and shares the same clubroot and flea beetle vulnerabilities. Concentrate pest pressure by keeping all brassica family crops in the same rotation block, separated from other crops.
  • 🌿 Fennel — Fennel releases allelopathic root chemicals that inhibit the growth of most neighbouring brassica crops. Keep at least a full bed width apart.

07 Sowing — How To

🌱 Direct Sowing (Outdoors)

  1. A rake levelling fine soil in a raised bed ready for sowing

    Prepare a light seedbed

    Rake the soil to a fine, crumbly tilth. Mizuna is not fussy about soil quality but a weed-free surface makes sowing and thinning much easier. No deep digging is needed — a light surface rake is sufficient for this fast, shallow-rooted crop.

  2. A stick drawing shallow drills across a tray of fine compost

    Draw a 1cm drill

    Use a cane or finger to mark a very shallow drill, 1cm deep. For baby leaf production, broadcast-sow across a 10–15cm wide band instead of a drill. Space drills 25–30cm apart for full plants. Water the drill before sowing if the soil is dry.

  3. Fingers sprinkling mizuna seed thinly along drills in a tray

    Sow thinly and cover

    Scatter seeds thinly along the drill — aim for one seed every 2cm. Cover lightly with fine soil and firm gently. Water with a fine rose. Apply insect mesh immediately. Germination takes 5–7 days in warm conditions, longer in cool autumn soil.

  4. Step photo for Thin progressively: flat hands firming compost over sown drills

    Thin progressively

    Thin first to 10cm for cut-and-come-again plants. For full rosette plants that will be harvested whole, thin progressively to 25–30cm over two thinning sessions. All thinnings are edible and excellent in salads. Cut at soil level rather than pulling.

  5. Scissors cutting mizuna leaves at the base beside a "Mizuna" label

    First cut at 10–15cm

    For baby leaves, harvest at 8–10cm tall — typically 3–4 weeks from sowing. For larger leaves, wait until 12–15cm. Cut with scissors 3–5cm above soil level. The stumps regrow vigorously — expect 3–5 further harvests from each sowing before quality declines.

Map of the UK and Ireland coloured by growing region, used with the regional timing table
Direct Sowing (Outdoors) — regional timing
RegionSow / plantHarvestNotes
Scotland & Far NorthMar–AugMay–OctMar–Aug direct · Plant: N/A · Harvest: May–Oct
Northern EnglandMar–AugMay–OctMar–Aug direct · Plant: N/A · Harvest: May–Oct
Midlands & WalesMar–SepMay–NovMar–Sep direct · Plant: N/A · Harvest: May–Nov
Ireland & Isle of ManMar–SepMay–NovMar–Sep direct · Plant: N/A · Harvest: May–Nov
South & SE EnglandMar–SepMay–NovMar–Sep direct · Plant: N/A · Harvest: May–Nov
South Coast & SWFeb–SepApr–NovFeb–Sep direct · Plant: N/A · Harvest: Apr–Nov

🪴 Module Sowing

  1. A scoop filling a module tray with compost, with a mizuna label

    Sow in module trays

    Fill module cells with multipurpose compost. Sow 2–3 mizuna seeds per cell at 1cm depth. Water gently and place in a cool, bright position — a windowsill or unheated greenhouse. No bottom heat is needed; mizuna germinates readily at room temperature.

  2. Fingers thinning mizuna seedlings to one per module cell

    Thin to one per cell

    When seedlings are 2–3cm tall, thin to the strongest one per cell by snipping at compost level with scissors. Do not pull — this disturbs the remaining roots. The retained seedling will grow quickly and be ready to plant out in 3–4 weeks.

  3. Hands planting a young mizuna plant from a module into a bed

    Plant out at 5–7cm tall

    Plant out when seedlings are 5–7cm tall and roots are beginning to fill the module. Space at 25–30cm for full plants. Water in well. Module-raised plants are tougher than direct-sown seedlings and suffer significantly less flea beetle damage at transplanting stage.

  4. Hands picking leaves from module-grown mizuna plants

    Harvest from 3–4 weeks

    Module-raised plants establish quickly and can be lightly harvested 3–4 weeks after planting out. Take outer leaves initially, building up to full cut-and-come-again cutting as the plant establishes. Plants reach full productivity within 5–6 weeks of transplanting.

Module Sowing — regional timing
RegionSow / plantHarvestNotes
Scotland & Far NorthApr–AugMay–OctFeb–Jul indoors · Plant: Apr–Aug · Harvest: May–Oct
Northern EnglandApr–AugMay–OctFeb–Jul indoors · Plant: Apr–Aug · Harvest: May–Oct
Midlands & WalesApr–SepMay–NovFeb–Aug indoors · Plant: Apr–Sep · Harvest: May–Nov
Ireland & Isle of ManApr–SepMay–NovFeb–Aug indoors · Plant: Apr–Sep · Harvest: May–Nov
South & SE EnglandMar–SepApr–NovFeb–Aug indoors · Plant: Mar–Sep · Harvest: Apr–Nov
South Coast & SWMar–SepApr–NovFeb–Aug indoors · Plant: Mar–Sep · Harvest: Apr–Nov

08 Using a Propagator

Mizuna and mibuna do not require a propagator — both germinate readily at room temperature without bottom heat. A cool, bright windowsill or unheated greenhouse is entirely sufficient. Mizuna actually prefers cooler germination temperatures of 10–18°C; high propagator temperatures above 22°C can reduce germination rates. The only time gentle warmth is useful is for very early February sowings in cold regions.

Heated propagator

Not recommended — mizuna prefers cool germination at 10–18°C. If using a heated propagator, set to the lowest setting (around 10–12°C). Temperatures above 22°C reduce germination rates significantly. Remove lid immediately on germination.

Temperature: 10–18°C (cool conditions preferred)

Unheated propagator

An unheated propagator lid can help retain moisture for early February sowings in cold regions. Remove as soon as seedlings emerge. From March onwards there is no benefit to using any cover for mizuna or mibuna.

  1. A scoop filling a module tray with compost, with a mizuna label

    No heat required

    Sow in module cells at 1cm depth in multipurpose compost. Place on a bright windowsill or in a cool greenhouse at room temperature. Mizuna germinates in 5–7 days at 15–18°C. A propagator lid can retain moisture until germination but is not necessary and should be removed as soon as seedlings emerge.

  2. Fingers placing seeds in a module tray beside a "Mizuna Red Knight" label

    Cool conditions preferred

    Mizuna is a cool-season crop that germinates best at 10–18°C. Avoid sowing on a warm propagator mat in summer — the seeds germinate better in ambient cool temperatures. For autumn sowings, bring module trays indoors to a cool room or unheated greenhouse to germinate, then move outdoors once established.

  3. Card photo for Transplant when robust: a large mizuna plant edged with frost in a raised bed

    Transplant when robust

    Transplant when seedlings are 5–7cm tall and roots fill the module — typically 3–4 weeks after sowing. Transplanting when slightly larger reduces flea beetle vulnerability at the critical establishment stage. Water in well after planting and keep moist for the first week.

09 Soil Requirements

pH
6.0–7.0
Best
Loam, Sandy loam
Tolerates
Most soils
Avoid
Waterlogged, Very acid
💡 Very adaptable. Grows in most well-drained soils. Light feeding recommended for cut-and-come-again use.

10 Ongoing Care

Hands moving a tray of seedlings into the shade of a greenhouse in hot weather

☀️ Shade Seedling Trays in Hot Spells

Young seedling trays are far more vulnerable to heat stress than established plants — direct sun on a hot day can scorch or bolt seedlings within hours. Move trays to a shaded spot during the hottest part of the day until they're established enough to go out, especially for sowings made in high summer.

Rows of mizuna growing under fine insect mesh on hoops

🐛 Flea Beetle Protection

Flea beetle (Phyllotreta species) is the primary pest of mizuna, mibuna, and all oriental brassica crops. The tiny metallic black beetles create characteristic round shothole damage in leaves — seedlings can be badly damaged within 48 hours of emergence in hot, dry weather. Fine insect-proof mesh (0.8mm aperture or finer) applied immediately at sowing is the most effective and reliable control. Remove for harvesting and replace promptly. Flea beetle is worst in spring and early summer; autumn sowings from August suffer far less damage as beetle populations decline. Module-raised transplants at 5–7cm tall are more resilient than direct-sown seedlings.

A watering can watering a raised bed of feathery mizuna

💧 Watering

Consistent moisture is important for preventing premature bolting and maintaining the quality of mizuna's delicate leaves. Water every 5–7 days for established plants in dry weather — more frequently for young seedlings and container-grown plants. Drought stress in midsummer causes rapid bolting and produces tough, more bitter leaves. A mulch of garden compost around established plants significantly reduces watering frequency. Container-grown mizuna needs daily watering in warm weather as containers dry out rapidly in summer heat.

Scissors cutting mizuna leaves into a white bowl

✂️ Harvesting

Mizuna is one of the most productive cut-and-come-again crops in the kitchen garden — each plant typically regrows 3–5 times after cutting before quality declines. Cut with scissors 3–5cm above the soil surface, never pulling plants up. The stumps regrow from the base within 10–14 days. For the best leaf quality, harvest before plants exceed 15–20cm — older, larger leaves become more pungent and slightly tough. Pick regularly even if you cannot use all the harvest — frequent cutting stimulates regrowth and prevents bolting. A bowl of mixed mizuna and mibuna leaves harvested in the morning is at peak flavour.

11 Watch Out For

Warning

Flea beetle is the primary pest — fine insect mesh applied at sowing is the only fully reliable protection. Bolting in midsummer heat is inevitable without succession sowing; make short rows every 3–4 weeks and switch to autumn sowings for the finest crop. Clubroot can affect mizuna as a brassica family member — rotate crops and do not grow in soil where brassicas have grown in the previous 2 years. Downy mildew can appear in crowded, poorly ventilated conditions: improve spacing and remove affected leaves promptly.

🐛 Insects & pests

  • 🦋 Cabbage White Caterpillar — Yellow, ribbed, skittle-shaped eggs in neat clusters on the underside of leaves in summer
  • 🐜 Aphids (Blackfly & Greenfly) — Curled, distorted, or stunted growing tips — aphids inject saliva that causes leaf curl to protect them
  • 🐌 Slugs & Snails — Silver slime trails on leaves, soil, and pots — often the first sign before damage is found

🍄 Diseases to watch

  • 🥦 Clubroot — Clubroot (Plasmodiophora brassicae) is arguably the most feared soil-borne disease in UK kitchen gardens. It persists in the soil as resting spores for up to 20 years — meaning a bed that becomes infected is effectively lost for brassica growing for two decades without extraordinary intervention. Crop rotation is the most critical preventive measure.
  • 🔵 Downy Mildew — Downy mildew is caused by oomycetes (water moulds) and is completely unrelated to powdery mildew despite the similar name. It thrives in cool, wet, humid conditions and is most damaging in spring and autumn. Each host plant has its own specific downy mildew species. Lettuce downy mildew can destroy an entire bed within days in the right conditions.

Full identification and treatment advice is in the Pests and Diseases sections.

12 Storage & Preserving

A bag of mizuna leaves on kitchen paper in a fridge drawer

🧊 Refrigerator Storage

Store mizuna and mibuna leaves dry and unwashed in a breathable bag or loosely closed container in the salad drawer. Do not wash before refrigerating — moisture dramatically shortens leaf life. Fresh-picked mizuna keeps for 3–4 days refrigerated. To revive slightly wilted leaves, submerge briefly in cold water for 5 minutes, shake dry, and use immediately. Store mibuna separately from mizuna if possible — its stronger flavour can transfer to the milder mizuna leaves over time.

A fork lifting a mixed salad of mizuna, radish and cucumber, with a chalk sign and seed packet

🥗 Using Fresh in Salads

Mizuna is most often eaten raw in mixed salad leaves where its mild, refreshing peppery flavour lifts the whole bowl without dominating. Baby leaves are finest raw. Young mizuna needs only a simple dressing of good olive oil, lemon juice, and sea salt. A classic Japanese sesame dressing — toasted sesame oil, rice vinegar, soy sauce, and a little sugar — is outstanding with mizuna. Mix with rocket for a more complex peppery flavour, or with mild lettuce to balance mizuna's bite. Mibuna is stronger and best used sparingly raw; it is better suited to cooking.

A handful of mizuna being added to a stir-fry in a hot wok

🍳 Cooking with Mizuna & Mibuna

Mibuna in particular is outstanding cooked: wilted briefly in a hot wok with garlic, sesame oil, and soy sauce for 60–90 seconds, it makes a superb side dish to grilled fish, chicken, or tofu. Older, larger leaves of both crops are better cooked than eaten raw. Add both to soups in the final minute of cooking. They work well in egg fried rice, noodle dishes, and as a filling for dumplings. Cooking greatly reduces the pungency, producing a mild, slightly sweet green vegetable. Do not overcook — both crops wilt to nothing in seconds.

13 Expert Tips

💡 The August sowing is the most

The August sowing is the most valuable of the year for mizuna. Sown in mid-August and grown under fine mesh, it produces outstanding harvests of tender, mild, perfectly flavoured leaves from October through to December in most UK regions. The cool autumn temperatures slow growth, concentrate flavour, and eliminate bolting risk entirely. An August-sown mizuna bed is one of the most reliable sources of fresh salad leaf in the autumn kitchen garden.

💡 For continuous mizuna production with minimum

For continuous mizuna production with minimum effort, try the broadcast method in a deep container or raised bed: scatter seeds densely across the surface, rake in lightly, and water. Harvest the whole bed at 10cm with scissors, 3cm above soil level. The bed regrows within 10–14 days for a second cut. Three or four containers at staggered sowing dates give a near-continuous supply of baby leaves throughout the season with minimal labour.

💡 Mibuna is one of the most

Mibuna is one of the most underused British kitchen garden crops and deserves wider cultivation. Its strong, distinctly mustardy flavour makes it a powerful culinary ingredient in small quantities — just a few leaves stirred through a stir-fry or added to miso soup transforms the dish. Grow a small row alongside the milder mizuna and use them in combination: the mizuna provides volume, the mibuna provides punch.

14 Common Mistakes

⚠ Sowing

  • Not applying insect mesh immediately at sowing — flea beetle can devastate mizuna seedlings within 48 hours in warm weather; the mesh must go on at the moment of sowing, not after damage appears
  • Making one large sowing instead of successional short rows — a single large sowing bolts together in midsummer; sow short rows every 3–4 weeks for continuous supply

⚠ Ongoing Care

  • Letting plants get too large before the first cut — mizuna harvested at 10–15cm produces tender, mild leaves; leaves allowed to grow beyond 20cm become tougher and more pungent
  • Growing mizuna in the same soil as last year's brassicas — clubroot persists in soil for 20 years; always rotate and never grow any brassica family crop in the same spot two years running

⚠ Harvest & Storage

  • Pulling up whole plants instead of cutting — mizuna regrows reliably 3–5 times from cut stumps; pulling plants wastes most of the potential harvest
  • Storing mizuna washed and wet — moisture turns the delicate leaves slimy within a day; store dry and unwashed in a breathable bag in the fridge

15 See Also

Open the full interactive mizuna & mibuna guide →Browse all 91 crops