Ribes rubrum
Among the most beautiful fruits in the kitchen garden — long translucent strigs of jewel-like red or pale ivory berries in July. Unlike blackcurrants, red and white currants fruit on old wood and respond beautifully to formal training as cordons, fans, or standards. They tolerate shade better than almost any other fruiting plant and a north-facing wall that would defeat most crops suits them perfectly.
The number of varieties shown for each crop is based on UK consumption data (2025/26) — the more popular the crop, the more variety choices we include.
The earliest and most vigorous redcurrant variety. Very heavy crops of large, deep red berries on long strigs in early July. Upright habit. One of the most reliable and widely planted redcurrant varieties in the UK. AGM.
One of the earliest redcurrants — berries colour in late June in the south, extending the harvesting season. Compact bush. Good crops of bright red berries. Useful for growers wanting to start the redcurrant season as early as possible.
A reliable mid-season variety with large berries and consistently good yields. Upright growth habit. The long-established standard variety for many UK gardeners. Good all-round performance.
The outstanding late-season redcurrant — extraordinarily heavy crops of very large berries on the longest strigs of any variety. AGM winner and widely considered the best redcurrant currently available. Extends the season into August. Vigorous, upright growth.
A mid to late season variety with good-sized berries that are slightly sweeter than most redcurrants. AGM. Compact, manageable bush suitable for smaller gardens. Good consistent yields without the exceptional vigour of Rovada.
A productive mid-season variety with upright growth and good yields of large berries. Czech-bred. Solid performer across UK conditions. Less well known than the Ben and Rovada types but highly valued by growers who have trialled it.
The classic whitecurrant — large, pale cream-ivory berries with a milder, sweeter flavour than red varieties. Much more pleasant for eating raw. An old variety that remains one of the best for flavour quality. Same management as redcurrants. Beautiful on the bush.
Outstanding yields of large, pale berries — among the most prolific whitecurrants available. AGM. Good disease resistance. Similar in character to White Versailles but with heavier cropping. One of the best choices for a whitecurrant where productivity is the priority.
An early-ripening whitecurrant with very sweet, delicate berries — the sweetest of the commonly available varieties. Excellent for eating fresh. Compact, well-behaved bush. A good choice for those who want a whitecurrant primarily for dessert rather than preserving.
Redcurrants and whitecurrants are almost always sold as bare-root bushes or cordons through autumn and winter. Specialist fruit nurseries offer by far the widest choice of varieties, including trained cordons and standards not usually found at general garden centres.
Look for named, certified virus-free stock rather than unnamed seedlings — named varieties are true to type and free of the viruses that gradually reduce yield in older, unverified plants.
Like gooseberries, red and white currants are grown on a short clear leg of 10-15cm, with all buds below that point removed to keep the fruiting wood up off the ground. Plant at the same depth as the nursery mark — not deeper, unlike blackcurrants — and firm in well. After planting, shorten each main branch by half to an outward-facing bud to establish the open, airy framework that currants need for good fruit quality. Mulch generously and get bird netting in place from the moment berries begin to colour; blackbirds and pigeons will strip a currant bush just as readily as a gooseberry.
Like gooseberries, red and white currants are grown on a short clear leg of 10–15cm. Remove all buds and sideshoots from the lower stem at planting. This lifts the fruiting branches off the ground, improves airflow, and makes cultivation and picking easier.
Unlike blackcurrants, do not plant deeper than the nursery soil mark. Plant at the same depth, firm well, and water in thoroughly. Space bushes 1.5m apart in all directions.
After planting, shorten each main branch by half to an outward-facing bud. This establishes the open goblet framework. Unlike blackcurrants, no hard renovation prune is needed at planting — the existing framework is retained and built upon.
Apply a generous mulch and install bird netting from the moment berries begin to colour — birds, particularly blackbirds and starlings, are extremely fast to strip a redcurrant. The translucent red berries are irresistible.
Training red and white currants as single vertical cordons against a wall, fence, or free-standing wire system is the most space-efficient way to grow several varieties in a modest garden. Plant at 45cm intervals against horizontal wires at 30cm, 60cm and 90cm, tying the single main stem in as it grows. As with gooseberry cordons, summer pruning is the key technique: shorten all sideshoots to 5 leaves in June-July, then reduce those same shoots further to 1-2 buds in winter. This builds short, productive fruiting spurs directly along the main stem rather than a spreading bush.
Redcurrants and white currants trained as single vertical cordons against a wall, fence, or free-standing wire system are perhaps the most space-efficient fruiting plants in the garden. Each cordon occupies just 45cm of wall space and produces a generous crop of easily accessible, easily netted fruit.
Plant at 45cm intervals against horizontal wires at 30cm, 60cm, and 90cm. Tie the single main stem to a vertical cane attached to the wires. As the stem extends, continue tying in at each stage of growth.
In June–July, shorten all sideshoots to 5 leaves. This is the most important management step for cordons — it restricts excessive growth and channels energy into building productive fruiting spurs.
In winter, cut the summer-pruned sideshoots back to 1–2 buds. These short spurs develop into productive fruiting clusters over successive years. Extend the leader by a third of its annual growth each year until the cordon reaches the desired height.
Attracts pollinators and adds a decorative, low-maintenance border nearby.
Onion-family plants grown nearby are thought to help deter pests with their strong scent.
A mild allium companion said to help deter aphids and other pests with its strong scent.
Attracts pollinators, but plant at a distance or in a sunken container as it spreads aggressively.
Bare-root plants must go in while dormant. November and February are ideal — the soil is moist, the plants are resting, and establishment is reliable.
Remove buds from the lower 15cm to create the leg. Shorten all remaining branches by half to outward-facing buds. Mulch and water in.
| Region | Sow / plant | Harvest | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Scotland & Far North | Nov–Mar | Jul–Aug | |
| Northern England | Nov–Mar | Jul–Aug | |
| Midlands & Wales | Nov–Mar | Jul–Aug | |
| Ireland & Isle of Man | Nov–Mar | Jul–Aug | |
| South & SE England | Nov–Mar | Jul–Aug | |
| South Coast & SW | Nov–Mar | Jul–Aug |
Red and white currants propagate from hardwood cuttings in exactly the same way as gooseberries — with the crucial difference that buds must be removed from the lower portion to form a leg rather than a basal stool.
Not Required — No propagator needed. Hardwood cuttings root reliably in open ground through winter.
Cut 25–30cm of pencil-thick current-season wood. Remove all buds except the top 4–5 — these will form the canopy while the cleared section becomes the leg.
Push cuttings vertically into a prepared trench with only the top buds above ground. Firm well. Mark with a cane — they are easy to disturb accidentally in a busy garden.
After a full season, rooted cuttings can be moved to permanent positions in autumn. Handle roots carefully — do not allow them to dry out during transplanting.
Red and white currants are pruned to build and maintain a system of productive spurs on a permanent framework — entirely different from blackcurrant management. In summer (June–July), shorten all sideshoots to 5 leaves. In winter, cut these same sideshoots back to 1–2 buds. Over successive years, these short spurs develop into fat, productive clusters that produce the characteristic long strigs of berries. Also in winter, shorten the main framework branches by a third. The goal is a balanced, open bush or cordon with a clear spur system — not a dense, leafy shrub.
Apply a balanced general fertiliser in early March. Potassium is particularly important for redcurrants and whitecurrants — sulphate of potash applied in February promotes good fruiting. Follow with a mulch of compost around the base. Do not apply high-nitrogen feeds in summer as this stimulates excessive leafy growth at the expense of the fruiting spurs that produce the crop.
Birds, especially blackbirds and starlings, strip redcurrants with extraordinary speed the moment berries colour. A single blackbird can empty a bush in a morning. Net from the moment colour develops — do not delay. The cordon form is particularly easy to protect with a simple tunnel of netting over a wire frame. Cordons can also be grown in a permanent fruit cage, making protection completely reliable. Without netting, expect to lose most or all of the crop.
Harvest whole strigs (the complete cluster on its stem) rather than individual berries — this is faster and avoids damaging the fruiting spurs for next year. Pull the entire strig away from the spur cluster cleanly. In the kitchen, strip berries from strigs by drawing them through the prongs of a fork. Redcurrants are ready when fully coloured and the berries feel slightly firm but not hard. White currants are ready when translucent and cream-coloured. Harvest over 2–3 weeks as berries ripen progressively.
Birds are the primary threat — net without fail as soon as berries begin to colour. Aphids, particularly the redcurrant blister aphid, cause red blisters and leaf puckering — treat with soap spray in spring. Gooseberry sawfly attacks redcurrants as well as gooseberries — inspect the centre of the bush weekly from April. Coral spot fungus causes orange-pink pustules on dead wood — remove and burn affected stems promptly, as it spreads to living wood.
Full identification and treatment advice is in the Pests and Diseases sections.
Redcurrants and whitecurrants keep for up to a week refrigerated in their strigs — do not strip from strigs until ready to use. They are rarely eaten raw in quantity due to their acidity but are outstanding mixed with sweeter fruits, used as a garnish, or served with cream and sugar. Whitecurrants have a milder, sweeter flavour and are more pleasant for raw eating.
Redcurrant jelly is one of the great British preserves — clear, brilliant red, and the perfect accompaniment to lamb, venison, and cold meats. Redcurrant sauce — jelly thinned with port — is a classic alongside game and roasts. Follow a tested recipe.
Redcurrants and whitecurrants freeze very well. Strip from strigs, wash, dry, and open freeze on a tray before bagging. Use within 12 months. Frozen redcurrants make excellent jelly through winter. They can also be frozen in strigs and stripped when partially thawed for easy processing.
A north-facing wall or fence that defeats tomatoes, cucumbers, and even apples is ideal for red and whitecurrant cordons. They tolerate shade better than virtually any other fruiting plant and remain highly productive in these difficult positions. Grow them where nothing else will fruit — they will reward you generously.
Plant one whitecurrant alongside your redcurrants. White Versailles or Blanka produce milder, sweeter berries with the same management requirements. The contrast in colour at harvest is striking, and the flavour difference makes them useful for different purposes — whites for eating fresh, reds for jelly.
Red and whitecurrants trained as standards — a single clear stem topped with a rounded head, like a miniature ornamental tree — are productive, unusual, and genuinely decorative. They take 3–4 years to develop but can be grown in large containers, used as focal points, or underplanted with herbs and low-growing companions.