Allium sativum
Garlic is one of the most rewarding and lowest-effort crops in the kitchen garden. Plant in autumn, leave through winter, harvest in summer — the cold period is essential for proper bulb development. A single bulb splits into cloves, each clove becomes a new full bulb: the mathematics are extraordinary. Homegrown garlic has a depth of flavour completely unlike anything available in supermarkets, and the Isle of Wight Wight varieties represent the finest UK-grown certified seed garlic available.
Garlic divides into two main types: softneck and hardneck. Softneck varieties are the most widely grown in the UK — they produce tight, multi-cloved bulbs with a long central soft neck that can be plaited, and they store for up to a year. Hardneck varieties produce a woody central stem (the scape) and fewer, larger cloves arranged in a single ring — they have richer, more complex flavour but shorter storage life of 4–6 months. Elephant garlic is not true garlic but a close relative of the leek, producing enormous mild cloves with a gentle flavour.
The number of varieties shown for each crop is based on UK consumption data (2025/26) — the more popular the crop, the more variety choices we include.
The most widely grown type in the UK. Tight, multi-layered bulbs with numerous cloves and a flexible central neck that can be plaited for storage. Long shelf life — up to 12 months.
The finest English softneck garlic and the benchmark Isle of Wight variety. Large creamy white bulbs with excellent flavour and outstanding storage — keeps reliably for 10–12 months when properly cured. AGM holder and the most popular softneck in UK kitchen gardens.
A classic French softneck with attractive rosy-pink tinged skin and a pleasant rounded flavour. Extremely reliable in UK conditions. Good storage life of 6–8 months.
An early-season Isle of Wight softneck that matures before most other types. Pale straw-coloured skin, compact bulbs, and mild clean flavour. Keeps for 6–8 months.
Fewer, larger cloves in a single ring around a woody central stem. Richer, more complex flavour than softneck types. Produce edible scapes in early summer. Shorter storage life of 4–6 months.
A classic Russian hardneck with distinctive deep purple-red striped skin and rich complex flavour. Widely regarded as one of the finest-tasting garlic varieties in the UK. Firm, easy-to-peel cloves. Best used within 4–5 months.
Named after Lautrec in south-west France where it has PDO status. Vivid pink-purple skin, large firm cloves, and intense sweet flavour. Exceptional for roasting. Stores for 5–6 months.
A beautiful Isle of Wight hardneck with striking deep purple outer skin and large fat easy-to-peel cloves. Very strong rich garlic flavour. Excellent for cooking and roasting whole. Use within 4–5 months.
Elephant garlic produces enormous mild bulbs — technically a leek relative. Cristo is a reliable long-storing softneck. Albigensian Wight is a prized French heritage hardneck.
Not true garlic but a close relative of the leek, producing enormous bulbs with just 4–6 very large easy-to-peel cloves. Flavour is mild, sweet, and gentle — excellent roasted whole. Stores for 3–4 months.
A clean white softneck with excellent disease resistance and outstanding storage — one of the longest-keeping garlic varieties available, staying perfect for up to 12 months when properly cured.
A rare and prized French heritage hardneck from the Albi region. Purple-streaked skin, large firm cloves, and a rich complex slightly spicy flavour. Use within 5 months.
Certified seed garlic is essential — never plant supermarket bulbs, which are often treated to suppress sprouting and may carry viruses. UK seed suppliers stock a wide range of softneck and hardneck types from late summer ready for autumn planting. Order from August for October planting — stocks sell out quickly.
Online suppliers offer certified virus-free seed garlic in the widest range of softneck and hardneck varieties. Order from August for the best selection before autumn planting stocks sell out.
Garden centres stock seed garlic bulbs from late summer through autumn — convenient for picking up a few reliable varieties in person, though the range is usually narrower than by post.
Each certified seed bulb splits into several cloves, and each clove grows into a full new bulb. Break bulbs apart just before planting — separate cloves dry out faster than whole bulbs, so don't split them too far in advance.
The classic method. Prepare a firm, well-drained bed in a sunny position. Garlic needs firm soil — do not plant in freshly dug or very loose ground. Plant cloves 15cm apart in rows 30cm apart, pointed end up, with the tip 2cm below the soil surface. Firm each clove in well. Plant Oct–Nov for the best yields.
Suitable varieties: All varieties. The standard growing method for maximum yields.
Garlic performs very well in raised beds — the excellent drainage is ideal since garlic dislikes sitting in wet soil over winter. Fill with a mix of loam, grit, and well-rotted compost. Particularly recommended on heavy clay soils.
Suitable varieties: All varieties. Particularly recommended for heavier soils.
Garlic grows well in large, deep containers — a minimum of 30cm deep. Use a loam-based compost with added grit for drainage. Plant at 10cm spacing to fit more cloves. Containers must have excellent drainage holes — waterlogged compost over winter rots cloves.
Suitable varieties: Solent Wight, Germidour, Cristo — reliable softneck varieties.
A classic combination — the strong scent of garlic confuses carrot fly. Interplanting garlic at the edges of carrot beds is a traditional companion technique.
Garlic and beetroot complement each other in terms of soil use and are said to benefit from proximity. Both are efficient users of space.
Garlic planted at the edges of salad beds is said to deter aphids. A low-maintenance companion for any salad growing area.
Garlic is planted as individual cloves, not seeds. There is no sowing as such — each clove is the planting unit. Split the bulb just before planting, select the largest outer cloves, and push them into prepared soil. Autumn planting (October–November) gives the best results; spring planting (February–March) is possible but yields smaller bulbs.
Just before planting, break the bulb into individual cloves. Keep the papery skin on each clove. Use only the largest outer cloves — small inner cloves produce small bulbs. One bulb gives 8–12 planting cloves.
Rake the bed to a firm, fine surface. Garlic needs firm soil — loose, freshly dug ground gives poor results. Incorporate well-rotted compost if the soil is poor. Do not add fresh manure.
Push each clove into the soil, pointed end up, so the tip is about 2cm below the surface. In very light soil, use a dibber to make a hole first — pushing into hard soil can damage the basal plate.
Firm the soil gently around each clove. Space cloves 15cm apart in rows 30cm apart. Overcrowded garlic produces smaller bulbs.
Label immediately with variety name and planting date. Different varieties look identical as young shoots and mature at different times.
In colder regions, or on light sandy soils, apply a thin layer of straw or leaf mould mulch after planting to insulate cloves and suppress early weed growth.
| Region | Sow / plant | Harvest | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Scotland & Far North | Oct–Nov | Jun–Jul | Autumn planting essential — cold period critical for bulb development. · Oct to early Nov |
| Northern England | Oct–Nov | Jun–Jul | Plant before ground freezes; established cloves survive winter well. · Oct to early Nov |
| Midlands & Wales | Oct–Nov | Jun–Jul | Ideal conditions; both softneck and hardneck perform well. · Oct to Nov |
| Ireland & Isle of Man | Oct–Nov | Jun–Jul | Ideal conditions; both softneck and hardneck perform well. · Oct to Nov |
| South & SE England | Oct–Nov | Jun–Jul | Spring planting possible but autumn gives significantly larger bulbs. · Oct to Nov |
| South Coast & SW | Oct–Nov | May–Jun | Milder winters; autumn planting still strongly preferred for best yields. · Oct to Nov |
Garlic is planted as individual cloves directly into the ground — there is no seed sowing or propagation stage. The equivalent of a propagator for garlic is a module tray of gritty compost, used only when outdoor soil conditions are too wet or cold to plant directly in October. Modules allow cloves to root before being transplanted into the bed in November or early spring.
Not applicable — garlic cloves must experience cold temperatures (vernalisation) to develop properly into bulbs. A heated environment actively prevents this. Never start garlic in a heated propagator.
An empty tray of gritty compost is as far as garlic ever needs to go indoors. There is no seed stage to raise under heat — warmth actively works against garlic, which needs a period of cold to trigger proper bulb division.
If October ground is too wet or heavy to plant into directly, cloves can be pushed into modules like this and kept somewhere cold and frost-free — a cold frame or unheated greenhouse bench — until the bed is workable. This is the only role a propagator plays for garlic.
Garlic is a poor competitor against weeds. Hand-weed regularly through winter and spring. Hoe very carefully in early spring as garlic roots are shallow and easily damaged. Once foliage is tall in May–June it naturally suppresses weeds.
Hardneck varieties produce curly flower stems (scapes) in May–June. Remove these promptly — they divert significant energy from bulb development. Scapes are a genuine delicacy — harvest when still coiled and tender, and use in stir-fries, pesto, or wilted in butter. Each plant produces only one scape so timing matters.
Lift when 50% of the leaves have yellowed and begun to dry — do not wait for all leaves to die back. Use a fork to loosen soil and lift carefully to avoid bruising. After lifting, dry bulbs in a warm, airy place for 3–4 weeks until outer skins are completely papery and the neck is bone-dry. Any moisture in the neck causes rot during storage.
Avoid planting garlic bought from supermarkets — it may carry viruses and is often treated to suppress sprouting. Always use certified seed garlic from reputable UK suppliers.
Full identification and treatment advice is in the Pests and Diseases sections.
Properly cured garlic stores for 6–12 months depending on variety. After lifting, spread bulbs in a warm, airy, dry place for 3–4 weeks until outer skins are completely papery and the neck is dry. Store in net bags or loose in slatted trays in a cool (10–15°C), dark, dry, well-ventilated space. Check monthly and remove any showing softness.
Softneck varieties are the only type that can be plaited — hardnecks have a rigid woody stem. Use bulbs with stems still intact. Plait three stems together and weave new bulbs in as you go. Hang in a cool, dry, airy place. A well-made plait is a practical and beautiful storage method. Keeps for 6–8 months.
Whole roasted garlic is one of the great kitchen garden rewards. Slice the top off a whole bulb, drizzle with olive oil, wrap in foil, and roast at 180°C for 40–45 minutes until the cloves are soft, golden, and sweet. The flesh squeezes out like butter. Roasted garlic freezes well.
The most common planting mistake is putting cloves in upside down. Always plant pointed-end up. A clove planted tip-down will eventually right itself but wastes energy and produces a noticeably smaller bulb.
Autumn planting in cold, wet soils can cause clove rot before rooting. If your soil is very heavy or poorly drained, plant in modules of gritty compost in October and transplant established shoots into the bed in November. A raised bed with excellent drainage eliminates this problem entirely.
Hardneck scapes are one of the great seasonal treats of the kitchen garden — harvest them in June when still coiled and tender. They taste intensely of garlic and are superb in stir-fries, as a pesto base, or wilted in butter. Each plant produces only one scape.
The key to long garlic storage is perfect curing. Garlic with even a trace of moisture in the neck will rot within weeks regardless of storage temperature. In a wet summer, bring lifted garlic indoors immediately and cure in a warm, dry room or airing cupboard for 3–4 weeks.