Winter Staple

Leeks

Allium porrum

Three trimmed leeks with long white shanks and green leaves on a white background
Open the full interactive leeks guide →

⚡ Quick start

  • Sow thinly in trays or modules indoors Feb–Mar at 16–18°C
  • Grow on in bright light until seedlings are pencil-thick — 8–12 weeks
  • Harden off for 7–10 days before transplanting outdoors
  • Transplant May–Jun into dibber holes 15cm deep, 15cm apart
  • Water into each hole — do not fill with soil; let the hole fill naturally
  • Earth up stems as plants grow to extend the blanched white shank
  • Harvest from September onwards — lift individually as needed through to April
🌱 SowFeb–Apr (indoors)
🌾 HarvestSep–Apr
☀ PositionFull sun / light shade
📐 Spacing15cm
DifficultyModerate

⚡ Quick facts

Difficulty
Easy–Moderate
Crop type
Hardy Biennial grown as Annual
Position
Full Sun to Light Shade
Soil
Deep, Fertile, Moisture Retentive
Container friendly
Yes — needs depth (30cm+)
Greenhouse recommended
No
Outdoor suitable
Yes — all UK regions
Frost hardy
Yes — very hardy

01 About

Leeks are one of the most dependable and versatile vegetables in the British kitchen garden — a true winter stalwart that stands in the ground from autumn right through to spring, ready to harvest as needed. Hardy enough to shrug off hard frosts and snow, they fill the hungry gap between the end of summer crops and the start of the new season. The flavour is milder and sweeter than onions, making them as good raw in salads when young as they are slow-cooked in soups, gratins, and pies. Leeks are slow-growing but undemanding once established, and the range of varieties available allows for a continuous harvest from September all the way through to April.

02 What to Grow

A long row of tall leeks with white shanks growing in an allotment bed in autumn

Leeks fall into four seasonal groups that between them provide harvest from early September through to late April. Early varieties are long, slender-shanked and mild — excellent fresh but less frost hardy. Mid-season varieties are the workhorses: longer shanks, heavier yields, and good frost tolerance. Late and winter varieties are short and stocky with very dark, sometimes blue-black foliage — designed to stand hard through February and March. Heritage and specialist varieties include the deeply coloured Blue Solaise, purple-tinged St Victor, and the chunky barrel-stemmed Carentan — all slower but with outstanding character.

03 Varieties

The number of varieties shown for each crop is based on UK consumption data (2025/26) — the more popular the crop, the more variety choices we include.

🌱 Early Season

Long, slender-shanked varieties for harvesting from September to November. Milder flavour, less frost hardy than winter types.

Jolant leek (RHS Award of Garden Merit, early, long shank, mild flavour): a long pale shank with mid-green leaves

Jolant

Early · Long Shank

Long, elegant pale shank with upright mid-green flags. One of the finest early leeks — mild, tender, and very productive. AGM holder.

  • AGM
  • Early
  • Long Shank
  • Mild Flavour
King Richard leek (early, long shank, for showing): a very long, slender white shank

King Richard

Early · Long Shank

Exceptionally long and slender pale shank. Fast-maturing and very uniform — one of the best early varieties for show and kitchen alike.

  • Early
  • Long Shank
  • Show
Megaton leek (F1 hybrid, early, high yield): a thick, chunky white shank with broad green leaves

Megaton F1

Early · Thick Shank

Vigorous F1 variety producing very thick, chunky shanks. High yields and good uniformity. An excellent choice for heavy crops from a small space.

  • F1
  • Early
  • High Yield

🍂 Mid Season

Tall, productive varieties harvesting October through January. Good frost tolerance and excellent shank length.

Autumn Giant 2 leek (mid season, long shank, reliable): a long leek on dark soil

Autumn Giant 2

Mid · Long Shank

Classic mid-season variety with long, thick shanks and good yields. Very reliable performer across all UK regions.

  • Mid Season
  • Long Shank
  • Reliable
Pandora leek (mid season, rust resistant): a clean, well-blanched leek on soil

Pandora

Mid · Long Shank

Upright, well-blanched shanks with good rust resistance. Consistent and clean-looking. Well suited to raised bed and allotment growing.

  • Mid Season
  • Rust Resistant
Apollo leek (mid season, thick shank, for allotments): a solid white shank with blue-green leaves on soil

Apollo

Mid · Thick Shank

Solid, thick-stemmed mid-season leek with good uniformity. Strong, upright growth. Well regarded for allotment and market garden use.

  • Mid Season
  • Thick Shank
  • Allotment

❄️ Late & Winter

Short, stocky, very hardy varieties for harvesting January through April. Deep blue-green foliage and exceptional frost resistance.

Musselburgh leek (Heritage, winter hardy, Scottish) card photo: a long, slim leek

Musselburgh

Winter · Short Shank

The most famous British leek — a classic Scottish heritage variety with short, stocky shanks and broad spreading leaves. Iron-hard frost resistance.

  • Heritage
  • Winter Hardy
  • Scottish
Bandit leek (RHS Award of Garden Merit, winter hardy, dark foliage, late): very dark blue-green leaves

Bandit

Winter · Short Shank

Very dark blue-black foliage — almost black in hard frost. Outstanding cold hardiness, standing through February and March without damage. AGM holder.

  • AGM
  • Winter Hardy
  • Dark Foliage
  • Late
Northern Lights leek (Heritage, winter hardy, purple, ornamental): purple-flushed shank under dark green leaves

Northern Lights

Winter · Purple Tint

Heritage variety with distinctive purple-flushed leaf bases and dark green upper foliage. Striking ornamental appearance alongside good eating quality.

  • Heritage
  • Winter Hardy
  • Purple
  • Ornamental

🎨 Heritage & Specialist

Deeply coloured and distinctively shaped heritage varieties. Slower growing but with outstanding character, colour, and flavour.

Blue Solaise leek (Heritage, French, blue-violet, winter hardy): vivid blue-violet leaves on a white shank

Blue Solaise

Heritage · Blue-Violet

Extraordinary vivid blue-violet leaves that intensify in cold weather. A French heritage variety of great beauty — one of the most striking vegetables you can grow. Very hardy.

  • Heritage
  • French
  • Blue-Violet
  • Winter Hardy
St Victor leek (Heritage, purple, winter hardy, top flavour): deep purple leaves on a short white shank

St Victor

Heritage · Deep Purple

Deep blue-purple colouring throughout the foliage. Shorter and stockier than Blue Solaise but equally striking. Rich, full flavour. Very frost hardy.

  • Heritage
  • Purple
  • Winter Hardy
  • Flavour
Carentan leek (Heritage, French, compact, barrel stem): a very thick, barrel-like shank with broad leaves

Carentan

Heritage · Barrel Stem

Traditional French heritage leek with a very thick, barrel-like stem and broad spreading leaves. Compact and robust — a distinctive old variety rarely seen in modern catalogues.

  • Heritage
  • French
  • Compact
  • Barrel Stem

04 Where to Source

A plain paper packet of leek seed with loose black seeds and a trowel on a wooden table

Leek seeds are widely available from all major UK seed suppliers. For heritage varieties — particularly Blue Solaise, St Victor, and Carentan — specialist seed suppliers, heritage seed libraries and seed swaps offer the best selection. Most garden centres stock Musselburgh and one or two F1 types as plug plants in spring, which is useful if you have missed the sowing window.

Flower seed packets tucked inside a padded postal envelope on a wooden floor

📬 Seeds by Post

Online specialist seed companies offer the widest variety selection including heritage types, exhibition leeks, and unusual varieties unavailable in garden centres. Order from January.

Nets of red and golden onion sets in trays at a garden centre, with racks of vegetable seed packets behind

🏪 Garden Centres

Convenient for standard varieties. Stocks from February. Good for plug plants if you miss the sowing window — available from March to May.

People choosing leek and broad bean seed packets at a community seed swap table

🌱 Seed Swaps

Leek seeds remain viable for 2–3 years. Local seed swaps and gardening clubs are excellent sources for heritage and exhibition varieties.

Timing tip: Order seeds in January and February. Popular varieties sell out quickly. Garden centres and markets are a reliable backup from April onwards.

05 Planting Options

🌱 Open Ground

Making deep holes with a wooden dibber in a prepared bed, with a bundle of leek transplants beside them

The traditional method. Start leeks in a seed tray indoors in February to April. When seedlings are pencil-thick (about 20cm tall), transplant by making deep holes with a dibber — 15cm deep, 15cm apart in rows 30cm apart. Drop a single seedling into each hole and fill with water rather than soil. This blanches the stem naturally as it fills the hole. Earth up stems as plants grow to increase the white blanched section.

Suitable varieties: All varieties. Particularly good for mid-season and winter types that need depth to develop a long shank.

🪵 Raised Bed

Dropping a leek transplant into a dibber hole in a raised bed and watering it in

Raised beds with deep, well-improved compost-rich soil are ideal for leeks — the extra depth allows full shank development without compaction. Transplant using the same dibber-hole method as open ground. Raised beds warm up faster in spring and the improved drainage prevents waterlogging in winter. Space at 15cm × 30cm.

Suitable varieties: All varieties. Raised beds particularly benefit mid-season and heritage types.

🪣 Container / Trough

A row of young leeks growing in a deep wooden trough on a patio

Leeks grow well in deep containers — a minimum depth of 30cm is essential for shank development. Use a rich, free-draining compost mixed with garden soil or loam. Plant 6–8 leeks per standard trough at 12–15cm spacing. Water regularly as containers dry out faster than open ground. Early and mid-season varieties suit containers best.

Suitable varieties: Early and mid-season varieties: Jolant, King Richard, Pandora, Autumn Giant. Avoid very late winter types in small containers.

06 Companion Planting

✅ Grow nearby

  • A bunch of freshly pulled orange carrots with their feathery green tops

    🥕 Carrots

    A classic companion pairing. Leeks deter carrot fly with their strong scent; carrots are thought to help repel leek moth. Interplanting the two crops provides mutual protection.

  • Tall green celery plants growing in a raised bed, with a cut head lying on a board

    🥬 Celery

    Celery and leeks grow at similar rates and share compatible soil needs. The two crops are thought to benefit each other when grown in close proximity.

  • A bunch of curly green kale leaves on a white background

    🥦 Kale

    Leeks and brassicas are good neighbours in the rotation — leeks follow brassicas well and the two crops share no major pests or diseases.

❌ Keep apart

  • 🧅 Onions — All alliums share the same pests and diseases — particularly leek rust and onion white rot. Rotate alliums as a group around the garden each year.
  • 🧄 Garlic — Same family — shares leek rust and white rot risk. Keep all alliums in the same rotation block and move annually.
  • 🫘 Runner Beans — Alliums produce root secretions that can inhibit legume growth. Avoid planting leeks directly adjacent to beans or peas.

07 Sowing — How To

  1. A hand levelling fine seed compost in a module tray, ready for sowing

    Fill seed tray

    Fill a standard seed tray or module tray with fine seed compost. Firm lightly and level — leek seeds are tiny and need a fine, even surface. A modular tray with 40–60 cells works well and reduces root disturbance at transplanting.

  2. Fingers sprinkling tiny black leek seeds thinly over a module tray of compost

    Sow seeds thinly

    Sow 3–4 seeds per module, or scatter thinly across a flat seed tray. Leek seeds are small and black — aim for even coverage at about 1cm deep.

  3. Sieving a thin layer of fine compost over a sown module tray

    Cover lightly

    Sieve a thin covering of fine compost — about 5mm — over the seeds. Leek seeds need darkness to germinate. Press down lightly with a board to ensure good contact between seed and compost.

  4. Watering a module tray of tiny leek seedlings with a fine rose

    Water gently

    Water with a fine rose or by standing the tray in water until the surface darkens. Leek seeds wash easily — never use a strong jet. Label clearly with variety name and date.

  5. Hands placing a module tray of leek seedlings into a lidded heated propagator

    Into propagator

    Place the tray in a propagator at 16–18°C — if you don't have one, a warm windowsill or airing cupboard works well. Germination takes 10–14 days. Ventilate once shoots appear.

  6. A module tray of tall, grass-like leek seedlings on a bright windowsill

    Grow on until pencil-thick

    Once germinated, move to the brightest spot available. Grow on until seedlings are 15–20cm tall and pencil-thick at the base — this takes 8–12 weeks. Harden off for 7–10 days before transplanting.

Map of the UK and Ireland coloured by growing region, used with the regional timing table
Regional sowing timing
RegionSow / plantHarvestNotes
Scotland & Far NorthFeb–MarOct–MarFeb–Mar
Northern EnglandFeb–AprOct–MarFeb–Apr
Midlands & WalesFeb–AprSep–MarFeb–Apr
Ireland & Isle of ManFeb–AprSep–MarFeb–Apr
South & SE EnglandFeb–AprSep–AprFeb–Apr
South Coast & SWFeb–AprSep–AprFeb–Apr

08 Using a Propagator

Leeks are started indoors in a seed tray or module tray from February onwards. They are modest in their heat requirements — cooler than tomatoes or peppers — and germinate reliably without high temperatures.

A heated propagator with a temperature dial and a misted lid over a tray of leek seedlings

Heated propagator

A propagator set to 16–18°C gives the most reliable and even germination — if you don't have one, a warm windowsill, the top of a boiler, or a warm shelf in an airing cupboard works equally well. Move seedlings to your brightest spot as soon as they emerge.

Unheated propagator

An unheated propagator on a warm windowsill is ideal for early sowings in February — without one, covering the tray with a clear polythene bag or a sheet of glass retains warmth and moisture until germination.

An unheated lidded propagator full of young leek seedlings on a windowsill

Standard unheated propagator — A lidded seed tray traps warmth and humidity around germinating seeds without electricity. Performance depends entirely on room temperature — best placed on a warm windowsill and used from March onwards. Replace the lid promptly after watering. Remove it completely the moment seedlings emerge to prevent damping off.

A module tray of compost on a windowsill with the first two leek seedlings coming through
Windowsill alternative: A bright south-facing windowsill can substitute from late February. Place a clear polythene bag loosely over the pot during germination. Remove immediately once seedlings appear.

09 Soil Requirements

pH
6.0–7.5
Best
Loam, Clay loam
Tolerates
Sandy loam, Clay
Avoid
Waterlogged, Compacted
💡 Deep, rich soil for long, blanched shafts. Tolerates heavier soils well.

10 Ongoing Care

Watering a row of young leeks in dark soil with a watering can and rose

💧 Watering

Leeks need consistent moisture, especially in the weeks after transplanting. Water into each dibber hole at planting and again regularly for the first three weeks. Once established, water deeply in dry spells — roughly every 7–10 days in summer. Avoid overwatering in autumn and winter when plants are standing in cold ground.

Hands drawing soil up around the white shank of a growing leek

⛏️ Earthing Up

Draw soil up around the shanks as leeks grow to increase the length of the blanched white section. Do this gradually in two or three stages through summer and autumn. Earthing up also supports tall plants against wind. Avoid getting soil between the leaves, which can cause rotting.

A hand scattering fertiliser granules around the base of young leeks

🌿 Feeding

Leeks are moderate feeders. Apply a balanced general fertiliser at transplanting if soil is not already rich. A liquid feed high in nitrogen in July encourages good shank development. Avoid high-nitrogen feeding after August — it promotes lush growth susceptible to leek rust.

Leek leaves dotted with small orange leek rust pustules

🟠 Leek Rust

Leek rust (orange pustules on the outer leaves) is common in wet summers. It rarely kills plants but reduces yields. Remove and bin — not compost — badly affected outer leaves. Improve air circulation by spacing plants adequately. Choose rust-resistant varieties such as Pandora if rust is a recurring problem on your plot.

11 Watch Out For

Warning

Leek white rot and leek rust are the two main disease risks. Both are soil-borne or weather-related — maintain strict crop rotation, never replant alliums in infected soil, and choose rust-resistant varieties if rust is a recurring problem on your plot.

🐛 Insects & pests

  • 🐌 Slugs & Snails — Silver slime trails on leaves, soil, and pots — often the first sign before damage is found
  • 🐜 Aphids (Blackfly & Greenfly) — Curled, distorted, or stunted growing tips — aphids inject saliva that causes leaf curl to protect them
  • 🌿 Leaf Miner — Pale, winding tunnels or irregular blotches between leaf surfaces — visible when held up to light

🍄 Diseases to watch

  • 🧅 Allium White Rot — Allium white rot (Sclerotium cepivorum) is one of the most persistent and devastating soil-borne diseases in UK gardens. The sclerotia (resting bodies) persist in soil for up to 20 years, and are stimulated to germinate specifically by the scent of growing alliums. Once present, a bed is effectively lost for all allium crops for a generation.
  • 🟠 Rust — Rust diseases are caused by a large family of obligate parasitic fungi, each specific to its host or a narrow range of hosts. Leek rust (Puccinia allii) is the most common in UK vegetable gardens, producing vivid orange pustules on leek leaves in summer and autumn. While rarely fatal, severe infections significantly weaken plants and reduce yields.
  • 🔵 Downy Mildew — Downy mildew is caused by oomycetes (water moulds) and is completely unrelated to powdery mildew despite the similar name. It thrives in cool, wet, humid conditions and is most damaging in spring and autumn. Each host plant has its own specific downy mildew species. Lettuce downy mildew can destroy an entire bed within days in the right conditions.

Full identification and treatment advice is in the Pests and Diseases sections.

12 Storage & Preserving

A row of leeks mulched with straw standing in frosty ground in winter

🌱 Leave in Ground

Leeks are best stored where they grow. Hardy varieties stand through hard frosts, snow, and temperatures well below zero. Harvest individually as needed from September through to April. The soil protects the roots and the leek stays fresh far longer than any refrigerated alternative. Mulch around the base in severe cold spells.

Trimmed leeks wrapped loosely in a damp cloth in a fridge salad drawer

❄️ Refrigerator (Short Term)

Trimmed leeks keep for 1–2 weeks in the fridge. Wrap loosely in a damp cloth or place in an open bag in the salad drawer. Best for early or mid-season varieties that do not overwinter well outdoors, or when you have harvested more than you can use immediately.

Sliced leek rings open-frozen on a metal tray, beside a labelled freezer bag of blanched leeks

🧊 Freeze (Long Term)

Leeks freeze very well. Slice into rings, blanch in boiling water for 2 minutes, drain, cool, and open-freeze on a tray before bagging. Frozen leeks are not suitable for salads but are excellent in soups, stews, and pies straight from frozen. Use within 9 months for best flavour.

13 Expert Tips

💡 Dibber Planting

The traditional dibber-hole method naturally blanches the stem — the deeper the hole, the longer the white section. Aim for 15cm minimum depth; 20cm produces a very fine shank.

💡 Leek Rust

Leek rust (orange pustules on leaves) is common in wet summers. Remove badly affected outer leaves and choose rust-resistant varieties like Pandora if it is a recurring problem on your plot.

💡 Earthing Up

Draw soil around the stems in two or three stages through the season rather than all at once. This extends the blanched white section without risking soil getting between the leaves.

💡 Season Span

A single sowing in February transplanted in May can provide harvests from September right through to the following April — over 10 months from one batch of seed.

💡 Heritage Colour

Blue Solaise and St Victor develop striking blue-violet colouring after the first hard frosts. They are among the most beautiful vegetables you can grow and excellent in flavour.

14 Common Mistakes

⚠ Transplanting & Establishment

  • Transplanting too early when seedlings are still thin — wait until stems are genuinely pencil-thick for best establishment.
  • Planting too shallow — dibber holes should be at least 15cm deep for a useful length of blanched stem.
  • Letting leeks dry out after transplanting — water well into each hole and again regularly for the first 3 weeks.

⚠ Ongoing Care

  • Ignoring leek rust — while it rarely kills plants, severe rust reduces yield. Improve air circulation and avoid nitrogen-rich feeding late in the season.
  • Earthing up too aggressively in one go — add soil in stages to avoid getting it between the leaves and causing rot.
  • Harvesting all at once — leeks stand in the ground perfectly; lift individually as needed rather than clearing the whole row.

15 See Also

Open the full interactive leeks guide →Browse all 91 crops